2001 Nissan Altima — Known Issues & Recalls

Your car was involved in a high-speed front-end collision on a highway. Your driver's side airbag did not deploy during the crash, even though the impact was severe enough to cause significant front-end damage. Your anti-lock brakes locked up during the incident, preventing you from steering to safety. Additionally, your exterior lights fail frequently and your power windows don't operate reliably.

Your vehicle was in a rear-end collision at 15-20 mph, and the airbag deployed but then exploded, causing severe burns to your upper body. You sustained multiple serious injuries including fractured ribs, a dislocated knee, a shattered pelvis, and embedded debris from the airbag. The airbag repair shop misplaced the airbags after the crash, preventing proper investigation of the malfunction.

Your car was hit in a front-end collision that caused significant damage, but the front airbags did not deploy during the crash. The front end damage was approximately $5,500 and was repaired, but the reason for the airbag failure remains unclear.

Your front passenger airbag warning light stays on even when someone is sitting in that seat. This means the airbag system isn't recognizing the passenger, which could prevent the airbag from deploying in a crash. A dealer diagnostic is needed to identify whether the problem is with the seat sensor, wiring, or the airbag control module itself.

Your car stalled without warning while driving at 60 mph, then restarted and ran normally — but this happened five times total. A mechanic determined the crankshaft sensor was likely the cause. The fix will involve replacing the crankshaft sensor, which tells your engine's computer the position of the crankshaft so it can control ignition timing.

Your car is idling roughly and stalling whenever you stop at traffic lights or come to a complete stop while in gear. This stalling problem has created dangerous situations where you've almost been rear-ended because the engine dies unexpectedly. The issue likely involves a fuel system, ignition, or air intake component that needs inspection and repair.

Your engine shakes and sputters when starting, though you can sometimes fix it by giving it more gas or shifting to Park and revving the engine. This happens intermittently every few months or so, regardless of whether the engine is cold or warm, and has been occurring for a few years. The problem may be related to a faulty intake manifold gasket, which would need to be inspected and replaced if damaged.

Your engine's motor mounts—the rubber and metal parts that hold your engine in place—were found to be defective and needed replacement. The problem recurred multiple times, requiring three separate replacements. You may have noticed excessive engine vibration or movement, especially during acceleration or braking. Fixing this typically involves replacing the worn motor mounts with new ones.

Your car is stalling without warning while you're driving at various speeds, and this has happened multiple times. A mechanic found that your crankshaft, catalytic converters, emissions control system, and sensors have failed and need replacement. The fix will likely involve replacing these major engine and emissions components.

Your instrument panel lights flicker on and off without a pattern, and your car loses electrical power intermittently without warning. The dealer told you there was nothing they could do to repair it. This electrical issue started around 54,000 miles and persisted through 75,000 miles.

While driving at 55 mph, your instrument panel gauges suddenly failed and reset to zero, then returned to normal after you shut down and restarted the engine. This appears to be an electrical glitch in the gauge cluster that resolved on its own, but may happen again. The issue could be caused by a loose connection, failing instrument cluster, or electrical problem that may need diagnosis at a repair shop.

While driving at 15 mph, your passenger side tire suddenly turned outward and struck a parked car. When you inspected the damage, you discovered that the control arm had broken at the hub connection, and the transaxle had separated from the vehicle. Parts were scattered across your parking area and up to 50 feet away from where the vehicle came apart. The suspension repair will require replacing the control arm, hub assembly, and likely inspecting the transaxle mounting.

While driving at 55 mph, your vehicle came to a complete stop after you released the accelerator pedal without applying the brakes. A mechanic found that the brake axle and sway bar welds had failed, and the lower control arm had fractured. These suspension and brake system failures caused the unexpected stopping, and repairs were not covered under warranty. The issue occurred at 187,000 miles.

Your car is making a cranking or squealing sound from the rear passenger side whenever you brake or turn, which a mechanic identified as a faulty motor mount. Your brakes feel compromised and limit how far you can safely drive on the highway. Your check engine light stays on despite multiple repair attempts, your headlights are dimmer than normal and don't provide adequate visibility at night, and your heat turns on by itself without being activated. Fixing these issues will likely require replacing the motor mount, diagnosing and repairing the brake system, addressing the engine sensor or emissions issue causing the check engine light, checking the headlight electrical system and bulbs, and inspecting the heating system controls.

Your engine's RPM drops below 500 and stalls while stopped at traffic lights, creating a collision hazard. The intake manifold has a vacuum leak that causes this stalling problem, which multiple mechanics may miss without proper diagnostic equipment. The repair involves replacing the intake manifold gasket or intake manifold assembly, typically costing $850 or more.

Your car is experiencing serious problems that started shortly after purchase. The engine randomly dies while you're driving, causing you to lose steering and brake control — which is extremely dangerous in traffic. You've had an oxygen sensor issue and an airbag warning light that won't go away; the dealership incorrectly disconnected a hose during diagnosis, which your mechanic has since reconnected. The underlying cause of the random stalling hasn't been identified yet, and you're working with your mechanic to find and fix it before the car is safe to drive.

Your car is making a loud noise from underneath and swaying while driving, especially when turning. You're also noticing a burning smell coming from the interior vents. These symptoms suggest potential issues with your suspension system and engine components that need professional diagnosis and repair.

Your car's rear suspension is making loud noises and causing the vehicle to rattle and shake, especially at the back. This suggests worn or damaged suspension components that need inspection. A mechanic will likely need to examine and replace worn suspension parts to restore smooth, quiet operation.

Your car's window regulator failed after just two months of driving in hot weather following a move from New York to Florida. Nissan had issued a service campaign to replace regulators, but it has now expired and the company refuses to cover the repair, claiming it wasn't a full recall. The regulator may need to be replaced, which involves removing the door panel and installing a new window regulator assembly.

While your car is stopped, the engine RPMs drop significantly and the engine shakes. A mechanic determined that your intake gasket needs to be replaced to fix this issue. Replacing the intake gasket involves removing it and installing a new one to restore proper engine sealing.