2002 Nissan Altima Transmission Problems

Your 2002 Nissan Altima is experiencing an undiagnosed problem that mechanics cannot isolate despite running diagnostics. You've noticed the symptoms match descriptions from multiple recalls listed for your vehicle's make, model, and year—including engine stalling and catalyst issues—but you're being told no recalls apply to your specific car. You'd like clarification on whether your vehicle should actually be covered by these recalls.

Your car's doors are locked and won't unlock, even when you try to unlock them manually. When you do manage to get them unlocked, they won't latch closed properly. The door locking and latching mechanisms likely need inspection and repair, which may involve replacing door lock actuators, latch assemblies, or checking the electrical connections to the door hardware.

I RECEIVED A LETTER FROM THE SAPIR YOUR COURT OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA I AM UNABLE TO FIND OUT WHAT IS GOING ON WITH MY CAR FOR WHAT MAY HAPPEN WITH MY CAR BUT THIS LETTER IS TELLING ME THAT I MAY HAVE ENGINE DAMAGE BECAUSE IF I LOSE POWER VALVES GIRL AND THAT MY CAR IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE NO ONE WON'T GIVE ME ANY TRUE INFORMATION OR EVERYONE IS TELLING ME THEY DO NOT KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT PLEASE HELP ME I DRIVE THIS CAR I DO NOT WANT TO KILL ANYONE OR TO DIE IT WILL STOP RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FREEWAY OR WHEREVER I AM.

POWER VALVE SCREWS IN THEIR 2003 NISSAN ALTIMA 2.5S. THERE IS CURRENTLY A RECALL ON 2004 AND 2005 ALTIMAS WITH THE 2.5S ENGINE WITH VINS STARTING WITH 1N4AL11. THE RECALL CAMPAIGN ID FOR THIS PROBLEM IS P5202. HOWEVER, THE SAME PROBLEM AFFECTS THE 2003 ALTIMA WITH THE 2.5S ENGINE, BUT NISSAN NORTH AMERICA HAS NOT ADDED THE 2003 YEAR MODEL TO THE RECALL. BOTH THE 2003S AND THE 2004S HAVE THE EXACT SAME ENGINE AND I AM A CASE IN POINT OF SOMEONE EXPERIENCING THE EXACT SAME ISSUE. HOWEVER, NISSAN HAS OF YET NOT STATED WHETHER THEY WILL ADD THE 2003 TO THE RECALL CAMPAIGN. I WANTED TO FIRST LET OTHER 2003 ALTIMA OWNERS WITH THE 2.5S ENGINE BECOME AWARE OF THIS ISSUE. SECONDLY DON'T PAY TO HAVE THE PROBLEM FIXED, IT NEEDS TO BE REPORTED TO NISSAN NORTH AMERICA THAT THE 2003 MODELS ARE AFFECTED BY THIS POWER VALVE SCREW ISSUE. HERE IS THE KICKER: MORE THAN HALF THE CURRENT VALUE OF THE CAR. PLEASE BE SURE AND NOT LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU. I HAVE BEEN ON THE PHONE WITH NISSAN NORTH AMERICA AND MY DEALERSHIP. MY DEALERSHIP HAS BEEN EXTREMELY HONEST WITH ME AND IS WORKING WITH ME TO GET NISSAN NORTH AMERICA TO ADD THE 2003-YEAR MODELS TO THE RECALL CAMPAIGN. IF YOU HAVE HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM AND HAD TO PAY FOR IT, OR IF YOU ARE EXPERIENCING POWER LOSS, HEARING ENGINE RATTLE, UNUSUAL ENGINE VIBRATION, OR HEAR A MOTORCYCLE ENGINE TYPE NOISE OR MUFFLER TYPE SOUND COMING FROM THE ENGINE, THAN YOU MAY BE EXPERIENCING PROBLEMS WITH THE POWER VALVE. I HOPE THIS INFORMATION SAVES SOMEONE OUT THERE BOTH MONEY AND TIME. IF YOU HAVE ALREADY EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE THAN PLEASE LET ME KNOW. WE ARE CURRENTLY MOUNTING EVIDENCE RELATED TO THIS ISSUE IN AN ATTEMPT TO MAKE NISSAN NORTH AMERICA AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND ADD THE 2003 MODEL TO THE RECALL CAMPAIGN AS WELL AS ADDRESS THE DAMAGE. IF NOT WE WILL NEED TO FILE A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT RELATED TO THIS ISSUE.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE INDEPENDENTLY DECREASED IN SPEED AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE OVER 5 MPH. IN ADDITION, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

NISSAN ALTIMA 2.5 AUTO TRANSMISSION. NEARLY KILLED ME. CAR SUDDENLY WENT TO 20 MPH ON THE INTERSTATE IN HEAVY TRAFFIC WITH 18-WHEEL 30 TON VEHICLE BEHIND ME. BURNS OIL LIKE CRAZY. PUT IN BETTER SYNTHETIC OIL, BURNS FASTER. HAD THE CAR DIE ON THE INTERSTATE AT 75MPH RIGHT IN FRONT OF AN 18-WHEELER. COULD HAVE DIED. COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED BY THE NISSAN CORPORATION. KNOW ANY GOOD LAWYERS? THIS IS REALLY DANGEROUS, NISSAN SHOULD RECALL AND REPLACE THIS ENGINE. REPLACED CATALYTIC CONVERTER, O2 SENSOR, PRE-CATALYTIC CONVERTER, SPARK PLUGS, SOME OTHER RELATED STUFF. BURNS OIL EVEN FASTER THAN BEFORE. COMPLETELY RAN OUT OF OIL IN 300 MILES. I AM TRYING 10-40 OIL TO SEE IF THE OIL BURNING PROBLEM WILL SLOW DOWN. CAR ONLY HAS 125000 MILES ON IT. COMPLETE POS. NEVER BUY A NISSAN, I NEVER WILL AGAIN. THIS WAS MY FIRST, ONLY 125K ON IT. I AM USED TO SELLING PERFECTLY GOOD FORD AND VWS AT 250K MILES. ON THE INTERNET MOST PEOPLE FAIL THE PRE-CAT AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER BY 95000 MILES, THEN OVERHEAT AND BLOW THE ENTIRE ENGINE. CARS STOPPING SUDDENLY AT 75 MILES AN HOUR ARE GOING TO KILL PEOPLE. SINCE NISSAN IS WELL AWARE, THIS IS PRE-MEDITATED MURDER. OTHER SYMPTOMS: NO POWER, NO ACCELERATION, NO RESPONSE BY NISSAN DEALER. NISSAN "SERVICE" IS A JOKE. NEVER TAKE A CAR TO NISSAN FOR REPAIRS. UNRELATED SIGN OF REALLY REALLY BAD ENGINEERING: PAINT IS FALLING OFF CAR. NEVER HAD THAT HAPPEN TO A CAR BEFORE, I HAVE A 14 YEAR OLD FORD WITH 240K AND THE ORIGINAL PAINT JOB, EVEN THOUGH IT IS NOT GARAGED. *TR

WAS DRIVING AND THE CLUTCH SANK TO THE FLOOR. COULDN'T GET INTO GEAR SO I HAD TO PULL OVER. ONCE I PARKED MY CAR, THE CLUTCH WAS COMPLETELY TO THE FLOOR. COULDN'T DRIVE IT BECAUSE THE CLUTCH WOULD NOT GET INTO GEAR. WAITED ABOUT 20 MINS AND IT CAME UP 1/4 OF THE WAY AND WAS ABLE TO GET INTO GEAR. THIS ONLY HAPPENS IN THE SUMMER AND IT HAPPENS ABOUT ONCE OR TWICE EVERY OTHER WEEK AND IF IT HAPPENS WHILE IT'S PARKED, THE CAR IS INOPERABLE. *TR

MY DAUGHTER HAD COMPLAINED OF THE CLUTCH IN HER CAR LOOSING PRESSURE AND BASICALLY DROPPING TO THE FLOOR, INTERFERING WITH HER ABILITY TO SHIFT GEARS, AND IT SOMETIMES LURCHING FORWARD ON OCCASIONS WHEN THIS HAPPENS. IN AUGUST 2010, SHE WAS SITTING AT A STOP LIGHT, IN FIRST GEAR WITH HER FOOT ON THE CLUTCH WHEN THIS OCCURRED, CAUSING THE CAR TO JUMP FORWARD INTO THE BACK OF ANOTHER VEHICLE. AT THE TIME, I FELT THAT HER FOOT MAY HAVE SLIPPED OFF THE CLUTCH INSTEAD, UNTIL IT LOST PRESSURE AGAIN A COUPLE OF DAYS AGO WHILE DRIVING IN THE MOUNTAINS. I STARTED RESEARCHING ON THE INTERNET AND DISCOVERED THAT MANY PEOPLE HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE MODEL EXHIBITING VERY SIMILAR BEHAVIOR. WHEN THIS HAPPENS IN TRAFFIC IT'S DANGEROUS, BECAUSE IT CAN LURCH BY ITSELF OR YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO SHIFT INTO GEAR TO MOVE OUT OF THE WAY OF ONCOMING VEHICLES, LIKE IF YOU'RE CROSSING TRAFFIC. IT ALSO INHIBITS THE ABILITY TO DOWNSHIFT WHEN GOING DOWNHILL. NISSAN DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THIS AS A MANUFACTURING PROBLEM, ALTHOUGH MANY PEOPLE HAVE BADGERED THE DEALERSHIPS INTO REPLACING THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER AND/OR SLAVE CYLINDER UNDER WARRANTY, AND NISSAN HAS NOT HAD A RECALL FOR THE PROBLEM. MINE IS WAY OUT OF WARRANTY, SO MY ONLY RECOURSE IS TO FILE A FORMAL COMPLAINT SO THAT HOPEFULLY OTHERS WILL NOT BECOME INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT AS A RESULT OF FAULTY PARTS OR FLUID BEING USED IN THE CLUTCH SYSTEM. THE GENERAL CONSENSUS IS THAT THE MASTER CYLINDER IS ALLOWING AIR, AND/OR MOISTURE, TO ENTER THE SYSTEM, BUT MOREOVER, THE DOT 3 FLUID THAT IS USED SEEMS TO BE THE MAJOR FACTOR IN THE FAILURE, WHERE AS DOT 4 OR 5.1 SHOULD BE USED INSTEAD. I HAVE NOT DONE ANY REPAIR TO THE CAR SINCE SHE HAS IT AT SCHOOL, BUT I WILL HAVE IT FIXED AS SOON AS I GET IT BACK HOME.

I OWN A 2002 NISSAN ALTIMA 3.5 SE. SOME TIME LAST YEAR, WHEN I WAS AT THE GROCERY STORE, MY CLUTCH WAS ALL THE WAY DOWN AND IT WOULDN'T COME BACK UP. I PUMPED IT A COUPLE TIMES AND IT WORKED. THEN WHEN I WAS DRIVING YESTERDAY, IT JUST STAYED DOWN, I WAS FIGHTING WITH IT SO THAT I COULD CHANGE GEARS. THIS MORNING, WHEN I WAS LEAVING FOR WORK, IT STAYED DOWN AND WOULD NOT COME UP. I WAS UNABLE TO DRIVE MY CAR. *TR

2002 NISSAN ALTIMA CLUTCH ISSUE. *DT THE CONSUMER STATED THE CLUTCH PEDAL WOULD STICK TO THE FLOOR, NOT ALLOWING THE CONSUMER TO SHIFT CORRECTLY; IF AT ALL. ONCE IT WAS STUCK, THE ONLY WAY TO GET THE CLUTCH TO FUNCTION WAS TO PULL THE CLUTCH MANUALLY BACK UP WITH HIS FOOT. AT 38,333 MILES, THE CLUTCH WAS REPLACED AT A COST OF$ 1,092.13. A YEAR AFTER HAVING THE CLUTCH REPLACED, THE PROBLEM RESURFACED. THE DEALER STATED THE CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY TO REPLACED AT A COST OF $250.00. THE CONSUMER HAS NOT EXPERIENCED ANY MORE PROBLEMS.*JB

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2002 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATE SPEEDS OF 50 MPH AND APPLYING THE BRAKES, THE VEHICLE STALLED. HE WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AND MOMENTARILY, THE VEHICLE EXHIBITED HESITATION AND SLIGHT JERKING. THE VEHICLE THEN PROCEEDED AS NORMAL. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT UNDER RECALL OR WARRANTY AND REPAIRS WOULD BE AT THE OWNERS EXPENSE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 93,100.

MY 2002 NISSAN ALTIMA WAS HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING PROPERLY. I WOULD START THE CAR AND IT WOULD RUN ROUGH, SPUTTERING, AND ENGINE SOUNDS HAD CHANGED. MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND ON SOME OCCASIONS IT IS HARD TO START. I TOOK MY CAR IN TO BE FIXED BY A PRIVATE GARAGE ON 08/05/2009 AND WHEN IT WAS PUT ON THE COMPUTER A CODE CAME UP. THE CODE WAS P0420: CATALYST EFFICIENCY: RECALL- POTENTIAL ENGINE COMPARTMENT FIRE, ACCORDING TO THE GARAGE AND THE RECALL BULLETIN ATTACHED TO THE CODE. I WAS TOLD TO CONTACT NISSAN. I DID CONTACT NISSAN AND THEY STATED THAT THERE WAS NO SUCH RECALL ASSOCIATED WITH MY VEHICLE. I TOLD THEM THAT I HAD A COPY OF THE 8 PAGE RECALL CAMPAIGN AND THAT MY VIN # WAS ASSOCIATED WITH THIS RECALL. AT THE END OF THE CONVERSATION THEY REFUSED TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT THIS BECAUSE IT WAS AN OLD CAR THAT HAD NO WARRANTY ATTACHED TO IT. *TR

NORMAL DRIVING IN AIR TEMPERATURES ABOVE 80 DEGREES. FAILURE IN THE CLUTCH PETAL PRESSURE- UNABLE TO DISENGAGE THE CLUTCH AND SHIFT GEARS. HAD FLUID FLUSHED HOWEVER THIS DID NOT SOLVE THE ISSUE AND SO THE MASTER AND SLAVE CYLINDER WERE REPLACED AS RECOMMENDED BY MANUFACTURER. ONE YEAR LATER THE ISSUE RETURNS, FLUID WAS FLUSHED AND REPLACED WITH A HIGH GRADE CLUTCH FLUID (DOT 4) HOWEVER STILL DID NOT SOLVE ISSUE. MASTER AND SLAVE WILL BE REPLACED AGAIN. THIS LINK BELOW WILL SHOW THE NUMBER OF PEOPLE WHO HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE CLUTCH PRESSURE. HTTP://WWW.NISSANCLUB.COM/FORUMS/2005-2006-NISSAN-ALTIMA-SE-R-DISCUSSION/229124-CLASS-ACTION-LAWSUIT-CLUTCH-PROBLEM.HTML. *TR

WHEN SHIFTING GEARS IN HOT WEATHER AFTER BEING IN CITY TRAFFIC MY CLUTCH WOULD ONLY COME UP APPROX. 1/4 WAY FROM THE FLOOR. I WAS ABLE TO CAREFULLY SHIFT GEARS, BUT FELT I MAY NOT HAVE THE CONTROL TO SHIFT NEXT TIME. AFTER THE CAR COOLED BY DRIVING OUTSIDE THE CITY, THE CLUTCH WOULD RETURN TO NORMAL. THE DEALER FAILED TO REPRODUCE THE PROBLEM. THE CLUTCH FLUID WAS THE ORIGINAL. I HAD THE CLUTCH FLUID DRAINED AND FILLED, ONLY TO STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. I SUSPECT THAT AIR FLOW WAS RESTRICTED WHEN A RECALL RESULTED IN A HEAT SHIELD BEING INSTALLED ON THE ENGINE THAT REDIRECTED MORE HEAT TO THE CLUTCH LINES/CYLINDERS. FORTUNATELY, THIS ONLY HAPPENS A FEW TIMES EACH SUMMER. *TR

THE CLUTCH PEDAL ON MY 2002 NISSAN ALTIMA 3.5SE INEXPLICABLY AND WITHOUT WARNING, FALLS TO THE FLOOR AND BECOMES INOPERABLE WHILE DRIVING. THIS HAPPENS INTERMITTENTLY, ESPECIALLY DURING 'STOP-AND-GO' TRAFFIC. THE PEDAL SIMPLY DOES NOT RETURN TO ITS NORMAL POSITION. IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO REPLICATE THE SYMPTOMS FOR MY MECHANIC, WHO GAVE THE CLUTCH A CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH. ONCE IT FAILED ME AT 60 MPH!!

I BELONG TO HTTP://WWW.NISSANCLUB.COM AND MANY OWNERS OF THE NISSAN ALTIMA WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION FROM 2002 TO CURRENT 2006 MODELS HAVE HAD PREMATURE MASTER/SLAVE CYLINDER FAILURES WHICH ARE A SAFETY HAZARD WHEN YOU CAN NOT SHIFT YOUR CAR INTO OR OUT OF GEAR WHILE IN MOTION. MANY OF US FIND OURSELVES IN A PANIC MODE WHEN WE CAN NOT STOP OR GO BECAUSE OUR CLUTCH PEDAL HAS NO PRESSURE AND WE CAN NOT SHIFT OUT OF GEAR WHILE DRIVING. MY PERSONAL INCIDENT INVOLVES ME HAVING NO ABILITY TO SHIFT WHILE IN ANY DRIVING SITUATION, SUCH AS PARKING LOTS AND UP TO HIGHWAY DRIVING. I NEARLY GOT HIT WHILE DRIVING SOUTH THEN MAKING A LEFT TURN (WEST) WHEN I COULD NOT SHIFT INTO SECOND AND ANOTHER CAR WAS COMING IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION (NORTH). I HAD TO REV MY CAR TO REDLINE JUST TO MAKE IT PAST THE INTERSECTION. IF YOU GO TO NISSANCLUB.COM YOU'LL FIND MAY PEOPLE WHO HAVE HAD FAILURES WITH THE MANUAL TRANSMISSION. *JB

WHEN ACCELERATING AT HIGH SPEEDS VEHICLE MAKES A GRINDING NOISE AND VIBRATES, MAKING IT POSSIBLE TO FEEL IT THROUGH THE STEERING WHEEL. CONSUMER TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER. HOWEVER, DEALER WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. *AK DEC 15 DEALER PICKED UP CAR TO FIX THE PROBLEM OF VIBRATION CAR RETURN 12/17 CAN STILL NOT FOUND AND THERE WAS NO PAPER WORK GIVEN ON WHAT WAS DONE. *TT

CLUTCH WAS NOISY. CLUTCH BEGAN SLIPPING AT 30K MILES. DROVE VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP. PAID OVER $700 FOR NEW CLUTCH. DISCOVERED THERE IS A SERVICE BULLETIN ON THIS VEHICLE FOR A REPLACEMENT CLUTCH WITH UPDATED FRICTION MATERIAL. WAS WRONGFULLY ADVISED BY DEALERSHIP THAT THE CLUTCH NEEDED REPLACEMENT DUE TO POOR DRIVING HABITS. *JB

MY CONCERNS ARE ALSO REFLECTED IN 2 OTHER COMPLAINTS LISTED ON YOUR WEBSITE. MY 2002 NISSAN ALITMA 3.5L SE, STARTED GIVING ME PROBLEMS AT 57,000 MILES. IT STARTED WITH VERY HARD SHIFTING GOING FROM 1ST TO 2ND GEAR. SOMETIMES IT WOULD WORK FINE (ESPECIALLY IF THE VEHICLE WAS WARM) IF THE VEH HAS BEEN SETTING OVER NIGHT, AND YOU PUT IT INTO "DRIVE" IF WOULD SHIFT VERY HARD. IF I REVVED THE ENGINE UP BEFORE PUTTING IT INTO GEAR IT USUALLY DID NOT SHIFT HARD. UPON ENTERING THE VEHICLE ONE EVENING TO DRIVE HOME FROM WORK, THE VEHICLE WENT INTO DRIVE FINE, HOWEVER WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF FIRST GEAR. AS I PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND HAD THE VEH TOWED TO THE NEAREST NISSAN DEALERSHIP, I WAS ADVISED THE THROTTLE CHAMBER WAS THE ISSUE AND THE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THIS HAS COST ME A TOTAL OF $4600.00 TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION, A $150.00 TOWING BILL AND THEN HAD TO RENT A RENTAL CAR UNTIL THIS WAS REPLACED. AM SEEING MANY VEHICLE COMPLAINTS WITH THIS ISSUE, INCLUDING 2 ON YOUR WEBSITE. *AK

CAR STARTED, BUT AS I WAS SOON TO FIND OUT, WOULD NOT ACCELERATE OVER 1000 RPMS. PULLED OUT IN TRAFFIC BEFORE I REALIZED IT WOULD NOT GO. WAS PULLING INTO TRAFFIC FROM DRIVEWAY AND ALMOST HAS A COLLISION BECAUSE I COULD NOT ACCELERATE TO THE FLOW OF TRAFFIC. MANAGED TO PULL OVER THE CAR TO A SAFE SPOT. TURNED OFF ENGINE. RESTARTED AND WORKED FINE FOR A WHILE. LATER, WOULD HAPPEN EVERY FEW TIMES I STARTED THE CAR. I HAD TO CHECK IF ENGINE WOULD REV BEFORE DRIVING. IF IT DID REV, PROBLEM WOULD NOT RE-APPEAR UNTIL TURNING ENGINE OFF. MANY TIMES, WOULD NOT START AT ALL, AND WHEN IT WOULD AND WOULD NOT REV. AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPTS AT RE-STARTING, ENGINE WOULD START AND REV AND BE OK UNTIL TURNED OFF. TOOK CAR TO DEALER. TURNED OUT TO BE THE "THROTTLE CHAMBER." REPLACED UNDER CALIFORNIA'S 50,000 MILE EMISSIONS WARRANTY, BUT ONLY AFTER I POINTED OUT THAT COVERAGE. SERVICE REP AT DEALER MENTIONED TO ME HE WAS SEEING THIS FAILURE ON NISSAN 3.5 LITRE V6S. POSTERS TO INTERNET NEWGROUP ALSO REPORT SEEING THIS PROBLEM. *JB

MANUAL TRANSMISSION JUMPS OUT OF GEAR WHEN BACKING UP A STEEP INCLINE. DEALER REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE PROBLEM THIS HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES. DURING THE LAST 2 1/2 YEARS. THE FIRST OCCURRANCE WAS ABOUT SEPT. 2002. *JB

CLUTCH ASSEMBLY MISMATCHED. TOOK 3 WEEKS TO GET PART, ONLY 3,000 MILES OLD. STILL HARD DOWN SHIFTING 5-4 & 2-1GEARS.*AK

THE GEARS DID NOT SHIFT PROPERLY.*JB

DELAYS, OBVIOUS JERKING, FELT DURING ACCELERATION AT APPROXIMATELY 10 MPR. IT IS WORSE WHEN CAR STARTS COLD PARTICULARLY IN THE MORNING. JERKING FORWARD DURING DECELERATION (WITHOUT BRAKING) AT APPROXIMATELY 30 MPR. IT HAS BEEN GETTING WORSE AS THE CAR PUTS ON MORE MILEAGE.

CAR SHIFTED IN PARK AND KEYS REMOVED. CAR FAILED TO START UNTIL REINSERTED TRANSMISSION INTO PARK. DT

ODOMETER WAS 4 SECONDS FASTER CAUSING CONSUMER TO DRIVE FASTER THEN INTENDED. DEALER AND MANUFACTURERHAVE BEEN INFORMED, AND DIDN'T SEE IT BEING A PROBLEM. PLEASE ADD MORE INFORMATION.*AK

SHIFTING FROM 5TH GEAR TO 4TH GEAR AND CLUTCH PEDAL STAY IN THE FLOOR. CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLATE, THROW OUT BEARING AND FLYWHEEL FAILED.*AK