2013 Ford Focus Electrical Problems

Two weeks after paying $1,100 to have a Body Control Module installed at a Ford dealership, your car's windshield wipers stopped working. While the dealership was diagnosing the problem, a technician discovered coolant dripping onto the electrical wiring harness, and when they touched it, the harness caught fire. The dealership had to disconnect the battery to stop the fire. Now the dealership is asking you to pay approximately $3,700 for repairs to the wiring harness and related components that were damaged during their inspection. The fire occurred while your vehicle was in the dealership's care and control.

Your power steering randomly stops working while you're driving, especially right after starting the car. When this happens, you can turn the car off and back on a few times to get it working again, but it's happened many times and you're concerned it could fail during active driving. Your dashboard shows a power steering warning light when the problem occurs. The fix will likely involve diagnosing the electrical connection to the power steering system, checking the power steering control module, or replacing the power steering pump.

The contact owns a 2013 Ford Focus. The contact stated while driving 35 MPH, the vehicle stalled and shut off at a red light. The contact stated that after ten attempts the vehicle restarted. The vehicle was not taken to an independent mechanic or dealer to be diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline to report the failure. The failure mileage was 196,666.

There is an issue with the vehicle not receiving gasoline and the car has left me stranded

The washer fluid pump leaks causing liquid to make its way along the electrical wires leading to the Body Control Module (BCM) and causing corrosion on the electrical connections and rendering the vehicle either inoperable or causing it to stall in some cases.

My car has a transmission problem because when I run the car it goes from and back and is takes time to speed it feel like if I’m forcing the car to move I don’t run the car to much since I got it it has 48538 it also makes a lot of noise on the engine we noticed since we buy the car from car max but they say the car had no recalls. About June 2023 it started with more problems and I don’t like it much because my 19 year old daughter is driving my car for school. I would like if ford can fix the engine problem ASAP. I would like my daughter to drive a safe car and for her not to be on danger.

While driving on busy street, car gave sudden warning light 'stop safely now’, car then slowed and shut down on its own, not giving enough time to find a safe place to pull over, posing risk of serious injury to myself, my son, and my wife, as this happened to all of us while driving this vehicle.

Car acted like the battery was dead, then when the car started the Check Engine Light engaged. The car did not have to be jumped. Put the car in Drive and accelerated. The Transmission changed gears rather rough. After a couple miles the car, although in reverse or drive had, zero acceleration power. Seemed as though I was in Park or Neutral. The 3rd day with this issue, I was prompted that the Transmission was overheating. Please note that the car had been started and in park for 5 minutes. Took the vehicle to the auto shop and found the TCM failed at 54 thousand miles. Before this issue there was not any sign of issues. Looked at my maintenance records and found the TCM had been reprogrammed by an Official Authorized Ford Dealership.

Horn stopped working three times. Was replaced by a certified mechanic both times and once again horn stopped working. Horn is getting wet because of its placement from what the mechanic he also said it’s a safety issue that does needs to recall

Bought my car from a dealer Ford and it was fine to start out then the battery died put a new one in kept doing what it was took it in to Ford They said it was the battery so I bought a new battery I asked them to check the alternator starter and the electrical wiring and things to see if they were something wrong with them they told me no that they had checked each one I can’t be driving in the whole car will shut off and shut back on then when you get in it the next day there is no electrical working had to call [XXX] when I was grocery shopping to have them to come look at it they jarred the car little bit and it started up then my brother got in the car to start it lights and dash lights kept going off like it was possessed but would not start Would like to know if they are any recalls on the electrical of the car it’s a 2013 Ford Focus INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

The stereo has faulty mosfet components IT SOUNDS LIKE MACHINE GUN SHOTS I almost hit another car and drove off the road. Even when the car is off it does this! this is a MAJOR safety issue no one is doing ANYTHING about. Half my dashboard is on my floor in order to make this stop! I can’t lock or unlock my doors without the key fob so if I needed to get out of the vehicle fast I have to reach in my pocket to hit the key fob. The radio also drains the battery while the car is off and making VERY LOUD MACHINE GUN SHOT NOISES. A new stereo unit is about $1000 this is a MAJOR safety problem as you can’t even turn the volume down ITS ON FULL BLAST! Whether the radio is on or off the only option is to take the 1.5’by1.5’ section of the dash “the whole middle” and put it somewhere else until this can be fixed! RANDOM FULL BLAST GUN SHOTS ARE NOT SAFE! I’ve read a LOT of forums and there are A LOT of people that have been in accidents because this is so LIAD and uncontrollable. Please let me know what I am supposed to do about this as your site says the radio is not covered? I’ve driving down the highway and the gunshots go off NON STOP for random lengths of time it is NO EXAGGERATION ITS AS LOUD AS GUN SHOTS! I shouldn’t have to drive my car with ear plugs or headphones I wear at the gun club while shooting guns! The mosfets on the pcb board are not adequately cooled, they break down because the heat for the car blows HOT AIR right on/around them. The design of the stereo uses the plate on the back to keep them cool, not possible while running the heater! I am unsure what to do as I need to be able to safely drive my car without it shoot full blast blank gun shots at me!also the FUSE for the radio does NOT blow shutting the stereo off when this happens. The mosfets get so hot I worry I’ll have an electrical fire while driving! This radio is NOT SAFE when the cheap components don’t function correctly and the safety features like fuses DONT WORK! I DONT WANT TO CRASH!

Radio makes loud popping noises on occasion. This is available for inspection upon request assuming a fix is not made. This loud noise could put the driver and others at risk because loud popping noises could scare dive. This problem has been inspected and confirmed by an audio shop. The radio works on occasion but often has popping sound and cuts out.

This car started to make loud engine noises which caused the car to shut off then it restarted on it's on I finally got it to parking lot when I cut it off it still was rattling and clacking like I was cranking it up on the left side of engine so I waited till about 30 minutes what ever it was it killed my battery then it started back up again but then through a check engine light on but when I got it checked it wouldn't read any codes so the display on board of the car read transmission shift in reverse but I wasn't in reverse so it was stuck in transmission mode and could not drive it I got it at a shop which they only would say a transmission, but they only wants to put a transmission in with out checking if it could be anything else like a electrical problem but he says no a transmission so now I'm only at 150k miles and this goes out without notice, I even asked about the transmission acuator but he says no the whole transmission, I just got the car like 3 months ago, and that is no good

Powertrain loss and loss of engine power, power control module. Engine failure on a busy highway. Putting me at risk of an accident. The car has been serviced by an independent service center. Has not yet been inspected by the manufacturer. Check engine and other warning lamps appeared

The contact owns a 2013 Ford Focus. The contact stated while driving 73 mph, the contact heard a loud knocking sound and received an electrical shock from the steering wheel. The contact sustained a numb left arm due to the electrical shock but medical attention was not sought. There was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer nor independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 142,938.

TRANSMISSION SEEMS TO BE SLIPPING AS IF THE GEARS ARE NOT CATCHING DURING CERTAIN TIMES OF SHIFTING. ENGINE SEEMS TO LOSE COMPRESSION. MECHANIC AFTER MECHANIC SEEMS TO HAVE A HARD TIME DIAGNOSING AND REPAIRING ISSUES.

CAR IS LESS THAN 6 YEARS OLD, STEERING COMPLETELY FAILS IN VERY COLD WEATHER DESPITE A FULLY ELECTRIC EPAS STEERING SYSTEM (NO POWER STEERING FLUID). IN ADDITION TO THE RADIATOR AND FUEL PUMP NEEDING REPLACEMENT WITHIN THE FULL LIFESPAN OF THIS CAR, IT IS VERY UNSAFE AND NOT ROAD WORTHY.

WIRING HARNESS IN TRUNK ALL WIRES ARE EITHER BROKEN OR EXPOSED CA'T ACCESS MY TRUNK HAVE TO PUT DOWN BACK SEAT AND GO TO TRUNK TO OPEN

I PURCHASED THIS CAR IN AUGUST OF 2017 IN BASTROP, TEXAS AT BENNY BOYD USED CAR SALES. IT BROKE 20 DAYS LATER , WHERE IT WENT TO BASTROP FORD , UNKNOWN AS TO WHAT RECALL THEY REPAIRED BUT IT RETURNED TO THE SHOP ABOUT LESS THAN 2 MONTHS LATER WITH ANOTHER RECALL ISSUE , I HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUES SEVERAL TIMES , I NOW HAVE THE SAME ISSUES AGAIN AND HAVE SINCE NOVEMBER OF 2018 I WOULD LIKE TO RETURN TO MY HOME STATE AND OR BE ABLE TO GET A NEW CAR BUT BECAUSE THIS CAR HAS CONSUMED AND NEARLY DIMINISHED ALMOST EVERY PART OF MY LIVELYHOOD AND SELF WORTH , FINANCES, DEBT , ETC . I AM UNABLE TO EVEN OPERATE AS A NORMAL HUMAN. I NEED THIS ISSUE ADDRESSED BECAUSE THE CAR DEALERSHIPS REFUSE TO ADDRESS THE FEDERAL RECALLS AND OR BUYBACK TILL 2023. . THIS CAR LOSES GEAR, HAS CLUTCH AND TRANS ISSUES DESCRIBED THE SAME AS EVERYONE ELSE'S IN ALL FORUMS AND COMPLAINT SITE ACROSS THE WEB. BACKWARDS IN DRIVE STALLS AT LIGHTS LOSES GEAR WHILE DRIVING MAKES ROBOT SOUNDS ETC. I HAVE RUINED MY LIFE BY PURCHASING THIS VEHICLE AND WOULD LIKE TO GO BACK TO BEING PRODUCTIVE. I HAVE A MIRAGE OF HEALTH ISSUES SO THIS IS NOT EASY CONSIDERING I SHOULD BE IN CONTROL OF MY EVERYDAY LIFE BECAUSE I ORCHARD A VEHICLE TO DRIVE NOT SIT AND WATCH IT PARKED WHILE PAYING 400 A MONTH IN IT. I AM AT A LOSS FOR WORDS AND SOLUTIONS . I AM IN FIRE NEED OF SOMEONE WHO UNDERSTANDS FROM ALL ASPECTS . THANK YOU .

DRIVER SIDE WINDOW REPAIRED ONES AND BROCKE AGAIN. 2 TIMES TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS AND HAD THE CLUCH REPLACED. AND DRIVER SIDE DOOR RUBBER SEAL KEEPS FALLING OFF

MY CAR IS CONSTANTLY HAVING ELECTRICAL ISSUES THE RADIO WILL CUT OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF PLAYING IT WON'T TURN BACK ON MY CAR LITERALLY HASS TO BE TURNED OFF FOR A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF TIME BEFORE THE RADIO WILL COME BACK ON AT ALL AND THEN IT DISCONNECTS AND MAKES A LOUD POPPING SOUND LIKE SOMETHINGS GOING TO CATCH ON FIRE IN THE CAR WON'T EVEN BE ON NOR WILL THE KEY BE IN THE IGNITION I FEEL THAT IT IS VERY UNSAFE DUE TO THE FACT THAT THAT KIND OF ANNOYS IS A BIG DISTRACTION AND COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT. ALSO WHILE DRIVING MY CAR HAS HESITATED A NUMBER OF TIMES WHILE AT A STOPLIGHT OR IN THE RAIN OR WHILE I'M TRYING TO MAKE A TURN OR WHEN I'M TAKING OFF IT DOESN'T MATTER IT'S LIKE IT DOESN'T GET ENOUGH GAS OR IT HAS PROBLEMS SWITCHING WITH THE RPMS AND THIS IS A CONSTANT PROBLEM THIS IS NOT JUST ONE OR TWO TIMES THIS IS SINCE I HAVE OWNED THIS VEHICLE AND IT'S A LITTLE BIT RIDICULOUS CONSIDERING THIS CAR HAS A FIVE STAR RATING DEFINITELY NOT A FIVE STAR RATING CAR CONSIDERING HOW MANY TIMES I'VE BEEN STUCK OUT IN THE MIDDLE OF TRAFFIC AND ALMOST GOTTEN INTO CAR ACCIDENTS BECAUSE OF THIS CARI WOULD REALLY LIKE FOR THIS TO BE INVESTIGATED QUICKLY THIS IS A LIABILITY TO ANYONE WHO OWNS THIS YEAR MAKE AND MODEL OF CAR

MY RADIO IN MY CAR DOES NOT WORK BUT BEFORE THAT IT STARTED POPPING AND CRACKLING REALLY LOUD WITH THE IGNITION ON OR OFF MOVING DOWN THE ROAD OR STOPPED. WHENEVER IT WANTED TO IT DID IT. IT WAS SO LOUD IT WOULD SCARED ME TO THE POINT I WOULD JUMP AND ALMOST GO OFF THE ROAD. BUT NOW IT JUST DOESN'T WORK. I'VE LOOKED INTO IT AND A LOT OF PEOPLE REPORT THIS PROBLEM BUT NOTHINGS BEEN DONE ABOUT IT AND I FEEL SOMEBODY SAFETY IS IN JEOPARDY. *TR

POWER TO DASHBOARD WENT OFF, NO EXTERIOR LIGHTS INCLUDING HEAD LIGHTS, TAIL LIGHTS, BRAKE LIGHTS, FLASHERS, SPEEDOMETER, DIRECTIONAL S. THE ONLY THING THAT WORKED WAS THE AC. CAR WAS STATIONARY. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS OCCURRED. IF THIS HAD HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING, IT COULD HAVE CREATED A HAZARDOUS SITUATION FOR ME AND OTHER MOTORISTS.*DT*JB

WHEN THE CAR IS IN PARK OR I?M DRIVING ON THE ROAD. THE RADIO WILL ABRUPTLY GO OUT, WITH A LOUD NOISE. THEN IT?S SILENT, AND ABRUPTLY YOU HEAR POPPING AND LOUD STATIC NOISES. IT IS A ROAD HAZARD, BECAUSE THIS LOUD STATIC NOISE COMES AND GOES; AND WHEN IT HAPPENS IT MAKES YOU JUMP. IT TAKE YOU FOCUS OFF THE ROAD, BECAUSE YOU?RE TRYING TO TURN THE RADIO DOWN OR OFF, BUT IT?S ALREADY OFF AND NOTHING WORKING. SO YOU WAIT FOR IT TO STOP. I DID TAKE MY CAR INTO A DEALERSHIP AND HAD IT INSPECTED, THEY SAID IT WAS THE WHOLE FRONT COMPONENT (RADIO/ AC) COST ABOUT $650. THERE?S NO WAY OF JUST DISCONNECTING JUST THE RADIO, BECAUSE IT?S ALSO WIRED WITH SOME DASH LIGHTS AND THE AC. THERE ARE ALSO MANY OTHER PEOPLE STRUGGLING WITH THIS PROBLEM. *TR

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE EXPRESSWAY AT 70MPH MY VEHICLE LOSS POWER ENTIRELY AND STALLED. I WAS NEARLY HIT BY THE VEHICLE BEHIND ME AND FORCED TO PULL OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AT THE SAME TIME AND INDICATED A CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR, CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR, AND IGNITION ERRORS. I'VE OWNED THIS VEHICLE FROM THE DAY IT ARRIVED AT THE DEALERSHIP. THE PROBLEM AT FAULT HAS BEEN PREVIOUSLY IDENTIFIED BY FORD IN A TSB FOR THE ENGINE WIRING HARNESS CHAFFING ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. OWNERS ARE NOT NOTIFIED THROUGH MAIL ON TSB'S AND THIS VEHICLE HAS BEEN SERVICED BY THE DEALER SINCE THE TSB WAS ISSUED. I BELIEVE THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL CONDITION DUE TO THE ACCIDENT POTENTIAL THIS PROBLEM CREATES.

THE VEHICLE DISPLAYS "STOP SAFELY NOW" AND ALL ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS SHUT OFF IMMEDIATELY. NOT ABLE TO START THE CAR NOR CHARGE THE MAIN HV BATTERY. FORD SERVICE AT CERTIFIED FORD DEALER REPROGRAMMED SOME OF THE MODULES BUT THAT DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM.

I WAS DRIVING AWAY FROM MY BOYFRIENDS HOUSE HEADING TO THE INTERSTATE 95 . AS I WAS DRIVING I NOTICED WHITE SMOKE COMING OUT OF THE DASHBOARD, I THE CAR AROUND AND HEADED BACK TO MY BOYFRIENDS HOUSE, I PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND JUMPED OUT, MY BOYFRIEND CAME OUTSIDE AND HE WAS ABLE TO PUT THE FIRE OUT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH, THE VEHICLE LOSS MOTIVE POWER AND STALLED WITH THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT HAD TO GET THE VEHICLE TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE CONTACT HAD TO JUMPSTART THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A CERTIFIED MECHANIC WHO WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT THEN TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE CAPITOL CITY FORD LOCATED AT (8623 E WASHINGTON ST, INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46219, (317) 898-0700). THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT A WIRING HARNESS SHIFTED AND DAMAGED OTHER WIRES WITHIN THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO NHTSA TO FILE A COMPLAINT. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 80,000.

OK SO FOR ONE, THE SCREEN (I THINK IT'S CALLED THE CLUSTER) IN BETWEEN MY ODOMETER AND MY SPEEDOMETER HAS OFFICIALLY GONE ALL THE WAY OUT. ONE DAY LAST WEEK IT STARTED TO HAVE LINES GOING THROUGH IT AND THEN ALL OF THE IMAGES WENT AWAY BUT I COULD STILL SEE A BACK LIGHT, IT JUST WASN'T TELLING ME ANY INFORMATION. IT STAYED LIKE THAT FOR TWO OR THREE DAYS AND THEN IT STARTED FLASHING LIKE A STROBE LIGHT. IT DID THAT FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS AND THEN IT WENT ALL THE WAY OUT FOR LIKE A DAY AND THEN IT STARTED FLASHING AGAIN BUT IT'S OUT NOW. WELL NOW THE SCREEN IS CONNECTED TO THE RADIO IS STARTING TO DO THE SAME THING AND I DON'T HAVE TO BE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD FOR IT TO DO IT. SOMETIMES WHEN I CRANK MY CAR IT'S ALREADY DOING IT BUT SOMETIMES WHEN I AM DRIVING MY CAR IT'LL SWITCH TO WHATEVER IT WANTS TO DO NEXT. I HOPE THAT MAKES SENSE, THAT'S JUST THE BEST I KNOW HOW TO EXPLAIN IT. WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?? HAS THIS HAPPENED TO ANYONE ELSE? I GET MIGRAINES AND I CAN'T BE DRIVING WITH A STROBE LIGHT HAPPENING LIKE RIGHT IN FRONT OF MY FACE, YA KNOW? LIKE, THAT'S A MIGRAINE TRIGGER. THIS ISN'T COOL.. IN THE PICTURE THAT I SUBMITTED IT'S A RADIO SCREEN IN THE FIRST PHASE OF WHAT HAPPENED TO MY OTHER SCREEN ABOVE THE STEERING WHEEL AND THE DATE SELECTED IS THE DATE IN WHICH OTHER SCREEN STARTED THIS WHOLE PROCESS OF WHATEVER IT DID.

I BOUGHT A 2013 FOCUS ST IN FEBRUARY 2020. IT WAS HAVING STALLING ISSUES REPORTEDLY DUE TO A WIRE HARNESS TSB/RECALL CAR WAS TAKEN IN TO HAVE RECALL REPAIR DONE. TOOK THE VEHICLE IN TO CORWIN FORD IN NAMPA IDAHO AFTER TWO WEEKS OF THEM HAVING THE CAR THEY COULD NOT FIGURE OUT WHAT WAS WRONG AND TOLD ME THE CAR WAS FINE. I TEST DROVE IT AND IT DROVE BETTER THAN BEFORE THEY STATED THEY DID NOTHING SO I LEFT. THE SECOND I TURN OUT OF THE DEALERSHIP IT STALLS SO I TOOK IT BACK AND LET THEM KNOW ITS STILL STALLING A TECH CAME AND LOOKED AND VERIFIED SOMETHING WAS WRONG WITH THE CAR. I FINALLY RESEARCHED AND CAME ACROSS THAT TSB SO I CALLED AND LEFT A VOICEMAIL ADVISING THEM TO CHECK THE HARNESS. WELL IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE SPLICES NOT BEING DONE CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME. I WAS CHARGED AND ACCUSED OF TRYING TO FOOT THE BILL FOR TELLING THEM IT SHOULD BE COVERED UNDER A RECALL REMEDY OR RECALL WARRANTY...

MY RADIO HAS VERY HIGH STATIC AND I CANNOT USE MY PHONE SYSTEM. MY FUEL GAUGE IS NOT READING PROPERLY. MY CAR JUST SHUTS OFF WHILE I AM DRIVING IT. WHEN I PULL OFF THE ENGINE STALLS. THESE ISSUES HAVE BEEN ON GOING EVERY SINCE I OWNED THE CAR. IT IS A COMPLETE LEMON.

DRIVER SIDE POWER WINDOW STOPPED WORKING

2013 FOCUS HATCH WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION. BOUGHT THE VEHICLE WITH 69K MILES, CURRENTLY HAS JUST OVER 100K. GREAT VEHICLE, VERY HAPPY WITH IT FOR THE MOST PART. HAVEN'T HAD ANY ISSUES SINCE PURCHASE. FORD RECALL NUMBER 16C13 FOR THE REPROGRAMMING OF THE BODY CONTROL MODULE TO REQUIRE 2 PRESSES OF THE TRUNK RELEASE TO OPEN THE HATCH ON MANUAL TRANSMISSION VEHICLES HAS BEEN REPORTED AS COMPLETED ON MY VEHICLE IN JANUARY OF 2017. HOWEVER MY VEHICLE STILL ONLY REQUIRES ONE PRESS OF THE BUTTON TO OPEN THE HATCH. SOMETHING THAT I HAVE DONE INADVERTENTLY SEVERAL TIMES WHILE DRIVING WHEN ATTEMPTING TO TURN ON THE FOG LAMPS. I CONTACTED THE DEALER THAT REPORTEDLY COMPLETED THE RECALL (SIOUX FALLS FORD LINCOLN, SIOUX FALLS, SOUTH DAKOTA), AND FORD. BOTH OF WHOM TOLD ME THE RECALL HAS BEEN COMPLETED AND THERE'S NOTHING THEY CAN DO ABOUT IT WITHOUT BRINGING THE VEHICLE IN AND PAYING FOR A SERVICE. I REPLACED THE BATTERY IN THE VEHICLE SHORTLY AFTER BUYING IT. NOT SURE IF THE BODY CONTROL MODULE LOST THE PROGRAMMING, OR IF THE RECALL WAS NEVER COMPLETED. AT ANY RATE IT DOESN'T AFFECT THE OVERALL PERFORMANCE OF THE VEHICLE, HAVE NOT EXPERIENCED ANY ISSUES WITH THE HATCH COMING OPEN WHILE DRIVING, ONLY UNLATCHING. I HAVE NOT LOOKED ANY FURTHER INTO THE ISSUE THAN THIS, JUST WANTED TO PUT MY EXPERIENCE OUT THERE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO COGGIN FORD JACKSONVILLE LOCATED AT 9650 ATLANTIC BLVD, JACKSONVILLE, FL 32225, PHONE NUMBER: 904-747-8996, TO BE REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED HOWEVER, CONTACT WAS UNAWARE AS TO WHAT WAS REPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS SUBJECTED TO NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V735000 (FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000.

MY CAR SHUDDERS WHEN I TRY TO DRIVE AND GET UP TO SPEED OR PULLS SOMETIME I HAVE TO PUSH THE GAS PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE CAR FLOOR TO GO WHEN I TRY TO PULL OUT A FRIEND IF MINES RECEIVED A RECALL LETTER ABOUT HER CAR DOING THIS HER CAR IS A A YEAR OR SO OLDER THAN MINES BUT I HAVEN'T RECEIVED ANYTHING BUT MY CAR BE DOING THE EXACT THING THAT'S WAS BEING EXPLAINED IN THE LETTER MY CAR HAS BEING DOING THIS SINCE THE LAST RECALL AND I HAD TO PUT IT IN THE SHOP IN AUGUST OF 2018

ALL DASH LIGHTS SUCH AS TRACTION CONTROL IS OFF STEERING ASSIST TURNS OFF ETC ALL APPEAR ON THE DASH AND THE CAR USUALLY STALLS AND VARIOUS MESSAGES POP UP SUCH AS ENGINE FAULT SERVICE NOW AND TRANSMISSION FAULT SERVICE NOW THIS HAS BEEN AN ON AND OFF PROBLEM AND IT WILL COME AND GO WHICH MEANS MY CAR IS AT RISK AT STALLING AT ANY MOMENT WHILE DRIVING AND WENT TO NUMEROUS REPAIR SHOPS AND EVEN WENT TO A FORD DEALER TO FIX A RECALL AND STILL THE PROBLEMS REMAINS THERE MY VEHICLE STOPPED IN A THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD NUMEROUS TIMES LEAVING ME STRANDED I EVEN LOST MY JOB BECAUSE OF MY CAR AND AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH MY GUESS IS THAT IS HAS TO BE EITHER THE WIRING HARNESS OR THE BCM OR POSSIBLY BOTH BECAUSE EVERYTIME THE VEHICLE LOSSES POWER AND TURNS BACK ON I USUALLY HOOK UP A SCAN TOOL AND SEE THE CODES AND THE CODE THAT ALWAYS POPS UP OR IT DECLARED AS PERMANENT IS "LOSS COMMUNICATION WITH TCM/PCM" I FORGOT THE NUMBER THE CODE IS ASSOCIATED WITH BUT THAT WAS THE DESCRIPTION OF THE CODE

CAR STALLED ON 99 HIGHWAY WITHOUT ANY WARNING LOSING ALL POWER AND UNABLE TO RESTART. TOWED TO DEALERSHIP AND WAS INFORMED TANK WAS NOW DEFORMED DUE TO THE VAPOR SYSTEM LOCK OF THE CPV SAFETY RECALL NOTICE 18S32 TECHNICIANS HAVE SENT PICTURES THAT THEY ARE IN POSSESSION OF AND SAID THEY COULD NOT GIVE US COPIES OF BUT ALLOWED US TO SEE AND SHOWED US THE TECHNICIANS RECOMMENDATIONS FOR TANK TO ALSO BE REPLACED ALONG WITH THE CPV . FORD CUSTOMER SERVICE CENTERS HAVE NOT RETURNED PHONE CALLS AFTER BEING INFORMED OF OUR CONCERNS AND STATE SPECS DUE NOT MET THERE REQUIREMENT SO THEREFOR ARE REFUSING TO PAY FOR TANK TO BE REPLACED . ALTHOUGH THE SPECIALIST STATES DIFFERENT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED AND SLOWED DOWN WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE VEHICLE HAD A DEFECTIVE CAMSHAFT SENSOR. THE MECHANIC STATED THAT THE ENGINE WIRING HARNESS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT ASSOCIATED THE FAILURE WITH NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V813000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM); HOWEVER, THE VIN WAS EXCLUDED FROM THE RECALL. THE CONTACT SPOKE WITH PLANET FORD (20403 I-45, SPRING, TX 77388, (281) 719-3700) AND WAS INFORMED THAT THEY WERE UNAWARE OF ANY RECALLS ASSOCIATED WITH THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

THE CAR IS OVERHEATED AFTER 5 MINUTES OF IGNITION, THE ENGINE STOPPED WHEN THE CAR WAS RUNNING AND THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON

VEHICLE TRANSMISSION STUTTERING WHILE DRIVING. AC IS OUT. MULTIPLE ELECTRIC ISSUES

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND SHUT OFF WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO RESTART. ALSO, WHEN THE FUEL TANK WAS FILLED, THE FUEL GAUGE DID NOT DISPLAY THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF FUEL AND THE MILEAGE WAS INCORRECT. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE SHAPE OF THE FUEL TANK APPEARED UNUSUAL. FURTHERMORE, THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE DID NOT IMMEDIATELY START WHEN IT WAS CRANKED. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 18V735000 (FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE). THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO REYNOLDS FORD OF OKC (833-821-8065, LOCATED AT 7320 NW EXPY, OKLAHOMA CITY, OK 73132) WHERE THE SOFTWARE SYSTEM WAS UPDATED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES AND CONFIRMED THAT THE RECALL REPAIR WAS TO UPDATE THE SOFTWARE SYSTEM. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 117,402.

WHILE DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEED, MY VEHICLE STOPPED COMPLETELY. THERE WAS NO POWER WHATSOEVER. I WAS ABLE TO COAST ON TO THE SHOULDER OF THE HIGHWAY. THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. I CALLED FOR VEHICLE ASSISTANCE. AFTER WAITING SEVERAL HOURS, THE DRIVER WAS NOT ABLE TO JUMP START THE VEHICLE. IT WAS TOWED TO MY REGULAR MECHANIC. HE WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE PROBLEM. ONE OF HIS MECHANICS SAID THAT FORD HAD A WARRANTY ON THE MAIN COMPUTER. SO I CONTACTED THE DEALER, PARKWAY FORD IN WINSTON SALEM, NC. FORD ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE PICKED UP THE VEHICLE AND TOOK IT TO PARKWAY. IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE MAIN COMPUTER HAD FAILED AND DRAINED MY BATTERY COMPLETELY. THE COMPUTER WAS REPLACED. THIS WAS NOT A COMFORTABLE OR SAFE SITUATION TO BE STRANDED ON THE SHOULDER OF A MAJOR HIGHWAY FOR SEVERAL HOURS ON A VERY HOT DAY.

WE HAD TRANSMISSION CLUTCHES REPLACED THROUGH RECALL. THIS DID NOT FIX PROBLEM. WHILE DRIVING, CAR WILL START FLASHING TRANSMISSION ERROR, HILL ASSIST ERROR, BREAKING ERROR , ETC.. THEN THE CAR WILL STALL. WE HAVE TAKEN IT TO DEALER 3 TIMES NOW. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON BUSY CITY STREETS AND HIGHWAY.

TRANSMISSION SYSTEM ON DASH DOESN'T RECOGNIZE CAR IS IN PARK OR ANY CHANGES IN GEAR. IT REFUSES TO START (OR EVEN CRANK).

PASSENGER SIDE TAIL LIGHT IS OUT (BRAKE LIGHT BULB FAULT WARNING LIGHT IS ON). AFTER SEVERAL BULB CHANGES, THE BRAKE LIGHT EITHER DOES NOT COME ON OR IT BURNS OUT VERY QUICKLY. AN ON-LINE SEARCH REVEALED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AND FORD HAS DONE NOTHING ABOUT THIS SAFETY CONCERN. I DO NOT KNOW WHEN THIS PROBLEM FIRST STARTED BECAUSE IT MAY HAVE BEEN A LONG TIME BEFORE SOMEONE ELSE NOTICED IT AND ALERTED ME. THE PROBLEM IS PRESENT AS SOON AS THE KEY IS TURNED ON.

ONE DAY WHILE FILLING CAR UP.. I NOTICED A FEW DROPS OF GAS ON THE GROUND AFTERWARDS. TODAY I WANTED TO ADD $8 TO MY GAS TANK. THE MOMENT I STARTED PUMPING THE GAS STARTED COMING OUT. I TRIED A FEW TIMES TO CONTINUE BUT I KEPT COMING OUT.

RADIO WILL CUT OUT AND THEN SOUND LIKE WIRES ARE SIZZLING AND WONT PLAY.THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION.AND EVEN WHEN ITS TURNED OF THE SIZZLING SOUND IS STILL THERE.

MY STEREO HAS DECIDED TO TERRORIZE ME WITH LOUD POPPING, CRACKLING, AND WHITE NOISE. IN THE BEGINNING MY STEREO WOULD MAKE A LOUD POP AND THEN NOT EMIT ANY SOUND. THE DISPLAY WOULD WORK, AND I COULD CHANGE THE STATIONS, INPUTS, AND VOLUME, BUT NO NOISE WOULD COME OUT OF THE SPEAKERS. I WOULD SIMPLY TURN THE CAR OFF AND BACK ON AND THE PROBLEM WOULD BE RESOLVED. SINCE, THIS GREMLIN HAS TRANSFORMED INTO A CREATURE OFF A "PREDATOR" MOVIE. NOW WHEN I START MY CAR, THE MUSIC MAY PLAY FOR A COUPLE SECONDS AND THEN THE LOUD POPPING TAKES OVER. WHETHER THE VOLUME IS ON "1" OR "10" THE NOISE IS JUST AS LOUD AND STARTLING. I WOULD SIMPLY TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE STEREO, BUT THIS DID NOT SEEM TO ALLEVIATE ANYTHING. ALTHOUGH NOT AS CONSISTENT, THE NOISE SEEMS TO INTERMITTENTLY COME EVEN IF THE CAR IS TURNED OFF AND THE KEY NOT IN THE IGNITION. AS STATED, THIS NOISE IS VERY LOUD AND STARTLING. IT STARTLED ME ENOUGH THAT I ACCIDENTALLY JERKED THE WHEEL OUT OF REFLEX WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY YESTERDAY. MUSIC IS A LUXURY, BUT HAVING THE CRAP SCARED OUT OF YOU BY YOUR OWN CAR WHILE DRIVING IS A GIANT SAFETY ISSUE!!

LESS THAN 24 HRS AGO I STARTED FOCUS AND THE DASHBOARD THAT TELLS ME HOW MUCH FUEL, AND HOW FAST I'M GOING DIDN'T WORK PULLED OVER TURNED IT OFF AND BACK ON AND IS STILL NOT WORKING. WENT TO CHANGE FUSES AND THAT DIDN'T FIX THE ISSUE. TALKED TO LOCAL REPAIR SHOP WHO HAS SEEN THE ISSUE AND SAYS IT CONTROL MODULE AND THAT THE PIECE IS CONNECTED TO SECURITY SYSTEM AND THAT SOMETHING WOULD HAVE TO BE REBUILT. CALLED FORD HOME OFFICE 800 NUMBER AND WAS NO HELP.

FORD DEALER IN MELBOURNE, FLORIDA REFUSES TO PERFORM RECALL WORK. TOOK THE CAR IN--IT FAILED INSPECTION. THE MANAGER REFUSED TO ORDER PARTS OR WORK ON THE VEHICLE AND TOLD ME THE MECHANIC WAS ON VACATION. I WENT BACK AGAIN TO HAVE THE OTHER RECALL ITEMS WORKED ON, THE MANAGER SAID IT WAS STILL A "NO GO," AND I'D HAVE TO WAIT TWO MONTHS TO GET MY UNSAFE CAR LOOKED AT...

INSTRUMENT PANEL WENT OUT, UNABLE TO TELL HOW FAST YOUR GOING OR IF LIGHTS ARE ON, OR BLINKERS. UNABLE TO DETERMINE MILEAGE OF VEHICLE

CAR IS DRIVEN IN MODERATE RAINING CONDITIONS IN VA. SUDDENLY WHILE MANEUVERING IN A WALMART PARKING LOT A FAULT 'ENGINE FAUL SERVICE CAR NOW' SHOWED UP ON THE DASHBOARD SCREEN. DIDN'T FEEL ANYTHING DIFFERENT AT FIRST AND CONTINUED DRIVING BACK HOME. ABOUT 2 MILES LATER IN THE MIDDLE OF ROUTE 28 THE CAR LOST ACCELERATION AND COMPLETELY STALLED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY. WAS ABLE TO MANEUVER IT ON THE SHOULDER BEFORE CAR COMPLETELY STOPPED. RESTARTED ENGINE BUT SAME ERROR SHOWED UP AND CAR ONLY MOVED A METER BEFORE STALLING AGAIN. HAD IT TOWED TO FORD CHANTILLY VA. DEALER CALLED A FEW DAYS LATER AND STATED IT'S A 800USD REPAIR ON A ELECTRICAL HARNESS ISSUE. IT IS THE SAME ELECTRICAL HARNESS RECALL THAT FORD RELEASED BUT ONLY FOR THE FORD FOCUS ST MODELS AND NOT SE. THIS IS THE 2ND TIME THIS YEAR THAT I'VE BROUGHT THE CAR BACK TO THE DEALER FOR MAJOR PERFORMANCE ISSUES. THE FIRST ONE IS COVERED BY THE TRANSMISSION PCM RECALL. FOR A 2013 MODEL THAT IS BARELY BEING USED (CAR HAS ONLY 35K MILEAGE) THIS IS UNACCEPATABLE. BTW CAR ALSO HAS AN ISSUE ON THE DRIVER SIDE POWER WINDOW (DOESN'T GO DOWN) BUT I HAVE NOT REQUESTED THEM TO FIX THEM YET.

WELL HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR, BUT HERE IS THE LATEST. I WAS DRIVING AND THE CAR STARTED MAKING NOISES AND THEN IT SPUTTED LIKE GOING TO DIE OUT, AND GET REALLY ROUGH DRIVING. I PARKED THE CAR GOT TO WORK, AND WHEN LEAVING IT WOULD NOT START. BATTERY IS NEW, SO NOT THAT. AFTER ABOUT 4 TRIES IT STARTED UP, THIS WAS WED. THEN FRIDAY, AND ON WAY HOME THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, AS WELL AS HAD ISSUE STARTING. I JUST RECEIVED THIS LETTER TODAY, HOW ODD AND CONFIRMED THAT THERE IS A PROBLEM AND NOT MY IMAGINATION. I HAVE GRANDCHILDREN THAT I PICK UP FROM SCHOOL AND DAY CARE, AND WILL NOT SUBJECT THEM TO THIS UNSAFE CAR. ALSO,LAST WEEK THE GAS GAUGE JUST WENT TO 50 AND IT BINGED TO LET ME KNOW, I DROVE TO THE GAS STATION NEARBY, AND I ROLLED IN.. NOW SEE THAT GAUGE IS ALSO OR COULD BE WRONG..I AM BRINGING IT IN AND HOPING YOU PUT ME IN A RENTAL UNTIL THIS IS FIXED!~

THE VEHICLE SOUND SYSTEM, RADIO, IS MAKING A LOUD POPPING NOISE, EVEN WHEN THE RADIO IS OFF AND THE RADIO IS NOT WORKING. MY MOTHER, OWNER OF THE VEHICLE IS 79. THIS LOUD POPPING NOISE, IS STARTLING, WHICH CAUSES HER TO PANIC, WHICH IN MY OPINION IS A SAFETY FACTOR. I'VE READ ON THE INTERNET THAT THIS IS HAPPENING TO MANY FORD MODELS INCLUDING HERS. THE FORD DEALER STATES IT IS $105 JUST FOR THEM TO TROUBLE SHOOT. I'VE READ ALSO ON THE INTERNET THAT DEALERS FIX ONE COMPONENT OF THE SOUND SYSTEM, WHICH WORKS FOR A LITTLE WHILE, THEN THE ISSUE RETURNS, ONLY TO REPLACE ANOTHER COMPONENT AND ON AND ON. MY 79 YEAR OLD MOTHER DOES NOT HAVE THAT KIND OF MONEY, AND WILL BE SUCKED DRY, IF THIS HAPPENS TO HER. SO OUR DELIMA IS TO NOT DO ANYTHING BECAUSE OF MONEY, AND TAKE THE CHANCE ON HER HAVING AN ACCIDENT CAUSE OF THE STARTLEING EFFECT, WHICH TURNS INTO PANIC, AND POSSIBLE AN ACCIDENT. WE FEEL THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE. AND WOULD APPRECIATE A RESOLUTION. ONCE AGAIN THE POPPING NOISE COMES FROM THE RADIO SYSTEM, THE RADIO DOES NOT WORK AND THE SOUND HAPPENS WHEN THE RADIO IS ON OR OFF. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR ALMOST A MONTH.

MY TRUCK POPS OPEN AFTER HAVE BEEN DRIVING SEVERAL MILES USUALLY 7 OR 8..WHILE I AM DRIVING...SOMETIMES IN TOWN, OTHER TIMES WHEN GOING 55 MPH..THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR PAST 6 MO, ALMOST EVERYTIME I DRIVE

CAR WAS NOT IDLING CORRECTLY WOULD HESITATE OR RUNNING EFFICIENTLY. FIST DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT THE VEHICLE NEEDED A NEW PCM. AFTER $1300 AND A NEW PCM, 6 MONTHS GO BY, SAME PROBLEM CAME UP. 2ND DEALER DIAGNOSED A P2626 TO BE A CHAFFED WIRE IN A WIRE HARNESS. $700 REPAIR TO REPLACE TWO WIRES. THERE IS A SIMILAR RECALL FOR FORD FOCUS ST 14S17 THAT DEALS WITH A CHAFFED WIRE IN WIRE HARNESS.

WHILE IN MOTION, RADIO / NAVIGATION SYSTEM NOTIFIES OF ERROR IN "911 ASSIST" SYSTEM AT WHICH POINT ALL AUDIO QUEUES FROM SYSTEM GO IN ACTIVE, INCLUDING NAVIGATION PROMPTS, RADIO, PHONE (IF CONNECTED) ETC... THIS RANDOMLY MAY OCCUR AND TYPICALLY WILL NOT RESOLVE ITSELF TILL AFTER A SHUT DOWN PERIOD OF A NUMBER OD HOURS.

THE RADIO/ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM OF CAR HAS STOPPED FUNCTIONING. APPROX. 4 MONTHS AGO, RADIO/ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM WOULD INTERMITTENTLY SHUT DOWN WHILE DRIVING. PRIOR TO THE SHUTDOWN, A VERY LOUD CRACKING NOISE WOULD WAS HEARD THROUGH SPEAKERS. ONLY AFTER TURNING THE VEHICLE OFF AND ON WOULD THE SERVICE RETURN. THE STOPPAGE WOULD OCCUR DAILY WHILE DRIVING, APPROX. 2-3 TIMES A DAY. I CHANGED THE BATTERY 4 WEEKS AGO AND ONCE THAT HAPPENED, THE FREQUENCY OF STOPPAGES INCREASED AND THE NOISE THROUGH THE SPEAKERS BECAME LOUDER. TWO WEEKS AGO, AFTER A VERY LOUD SCREECH, THE RADIO/ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM CEASED FUNCTIONING. WHEN TURNING ON THE CAR IGNITION, THE ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEM SCREEN WILL ONLY DISPLAY THE TIME AND DATE. NO USE OF RADIO, CD PLAYER, USB PORT AND BLUETOOTH.

INITIALLY, ONCE VEHICLE IS STARTED AND RADIO IS TURNED ON, CRACKLING SOUNDS ARE HEARD ACROSS ENTIRE DASH OF CAR. RADIO STOPS WORKING. SOME DAYS RADIO WORKS, OTHER DAYS LONG STRETCHES OF CRACKLING AND THEN RADIO STOPS. RECENTLY, RADIO DOES NOT WORK AT ALL. WHEN BACK DOOR IS OPENED, SPEAKER IN REAR DRIVER DOOR CRACKLES AND SOUND IS HEARD ALL THE WAY TO THE FRONT DRIVER DOOR AND ACROSS DASH TO THE RADIO. RADIO HAS STOPPED WORKING ALTOGETHER. CANNOT BE TURNED OFF (APPEARS TO BE ON EVEN THOUGH NOT WORKING). EVENTS OCCURRED OVER 2 WEEK PERIOD. NO DIFFICULTY WITH TRANSMISSION, OPERATION OR DASHBOARD. LAST EVENT WITH CRACKLING OCCURRED AS REAR DRIVER SIDE DOOR WAS OPENED TO PUT ITEMS IN BACK SEAT. CAR NOT RUNNING.

VEHICLE COMPLETELY DIED WHILE DRIVING. REPLACED BATTERY VEHICLE STARTS BUT SHUTS RIGHT OFF ON ITS OWN. VEHICLE ALSO STARTED ON ITS OWN WITH KEYS JUST IN THE ON POSITION.

WITHIN THE LAST 12 MONTHS OR SO, THE STEREO WILL EMIT A LOUD POP (WHICH IS QUITE ALARMING WHILST DRIVING) AND THEN GO OUT. IT IS NOW FOLLOWED BY WHAT CAN ONLY BE DESCRIBED AS ELECTRICAL CURRENT RUNNING THROUGHOUT THE CAR AND SPEAKERS. THIS LAST SATURDAY, WHILE AT WORK, A CUSTOMER CAME IN AND ASKED WHO OWNED THE BLUE FORD FOCUS BECAUSE IT'S MAKING A WEIRD NOISE. I GO OUTSIDE (KEYS IN MY POCKET) AND SURE ENOUGH, IT SOUNDS LIKE ELECTRICITY RUNNING THROUGH THE SPEAKERS!! THE FOLLOWING DAY, IT DID THIS AGAIN (KEYS STILL IN MY POCKET). I PERFORMED A GOOGLE SEARCH FOR THIS ISSUE AND CAME UPON MULTIPLE SITES (SOME DATING AS FAR BACK AS 2015) DESCRIBING THIS ISSUE AND THE FACT THAT FORD IS UNWILLING TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE. I CONTACTED FORD MOTOR COMPANY THIS MORNING AND WAS TOLD THAT I WOULD NEED TO TAKE IT TO MY NEAREST FORD TECHNICAL SERVICE TO HAVE A DIAGNOSTIC PERFORMED SO THEY COULD NOTE WHAT THE ISSUE MAY BE, ON MY DIME! TO WHICH I QUESTIONED THE VALIDITY OF THIS STATEMENT AS THERE ARE THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE COMPLAINING ABOUT THIS VERY ISSUE AND FIND IT RATHER ODD THAT FORD HAS NO KNOWLEDGE WHAT SO EVER REGARDING THIS ISSUE. MY MAIN CONCERN IS, WHAT POSSIBLE DAMAGE COULD IT BE DOING TO THE CARS ELECTRONICS AS WELL AS THE ALARMING POP WHILST DRIVING. ONE OF THE MAIN SAFETY FEATURES OF THIS VEHICLE WAS THE ABILITY OF HANDS FREE CALLING, BUT THAT FEATURE IS COMPLETELY RENDERED USELESS WHEN THIS HAPPENS.

ON THURSDAY AUGUST 2, 2018 AROUND 8:30. THE WIRES IN THE DASH BOARD CAUGHT ON FIRE. THE CARD BEGAN TO FILL WITH SMOKE. I COULD SMELL THE BURNING AND I WASN'T SURE OF WHAT WAS HAPPENING. I COULD HEAR A SPARK SOUND AND I COULD TELL THAT THE WIRES WHERE BURNING. THIS WAS AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SITUATION, THE ENTIRE CAR MIGHT HAVE CAUGHT ON FIRE , IF MY BOYFRIEND DIDN'T COME AND CONTAIN THE FIRE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR FLASHED AND REMAINED ILLUMINATED AS THE FAILURE PROGRESSED. THE VEHICLE JERKED AND DECELERATED TO A LOW RATE OF SPEED EACH TIME THE INDICATOR FLASHED. THE DEALER (LANDERS FORD, 2082 W POPLAR AVE, COLLIERVILLE, TN 38017, (901) 854-3600) PROVIDED A SOFTWARE UPDATE TO THE COMPUTER; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT PLANNED ON TAKING THE VEHICLE TO A SECOND DEALER (JACK SCHMITT FORD, 1820 VANDALIA ST, COLLINSVILLE, IL 62234, (618) 477-8126) FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE NUMEROUS TIMES, BUT OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE VIN AND FAILURE MILEAGE WERE NOT AVAILABLE.

2013 FORD FOCUS. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO LOSS OF POWER WHILE DRIVING. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED A NEW TRANSMISSION WAS INSTALLED AND FAILED. THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO VIOLENTLY SHAKE. THE TRANSMISSION WAS REBUILT AND THE CLUTCH REPAIRED. *JS

I HAVE A 2013 FORD FOCUS SE THE FUSE IS OK BUT THE HORN DOES NOT WORK. IS THIS A SAFETY ISSUE. IS THIS COVERED UNDER MY WARRENTY?

I BOUGHT THIS CAR BRAND NEW IN 2013. ON 5/16/2018 I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD DURING RUSH HOUR IN THE LEFT LANE OF TRAFFIC WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THE I GET A NOTIFICATION THAT SAYS "ENGINE FAULT SERVICE NOW". THEN THE ENGINE CUTS OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF A BUSY ROAD. THE PERSON BEHIND ME ALMOST SMASHED INTO ME BUT SWERVED AT THE LAST SECOND AND CUT A CAR OFF IN THE LANE NEXT TO ME. I TRIED TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND THEN ON, BUT IT WOULDN'T START. IT WAS SOOO DANGEROUS TO BE STUCK ON THE ROAD NOT ABLE TO DO ANYTHING. I HAD TO CALL THE POLICE TO SET UP FLARES BEHIND ME. I HAVE BEEN READING BLOGS AND I AM NOT THE ONLY PERSON THIS HAS HAPPENED TO.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 5 MPH, THE VEHICLE'S POWER SEIZED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO GALPIN FORD (15505 ROSCOE BLVD, VAN NUYS, CA 91343), BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE COULD NOT BE DETERMINED. THE FAILURE RECURRED SEVERAL TIMES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 143,358.

INSTURMENT CLUSTER STOPPED WORKING. NOTICED IT WHEN I STARTED UP THE CAR SEVERAL DAYS AGO

WIPERS WILL NOT WORK WHEN RAINING. THEN THEY WILL COME ON ON THEIR OWN. THEN GO OFF AGAIN THEN COME ON AND NOT TURN OFF EVEN AFTER THEN ENGINE HAS BEEN SHUT OFF AND THE KEY REMOVED. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY HAZARD AND HAS BEEN REPORTED SEVERAL TIMES BY SEVERAL PEOPLE. 2012 WAS RECALLED FOR THIS VERY SAME THING

DESIGN FAILURE IN ENGINE WIRING HARNESS THE WIRES WITH IN THE ENGINE WIRING HARNESS RUB TOGETHER WITH THE VIBRATION OF AN IGNITED ENGINE. AS FRICTION OCCURS BETWEEN THE INDIVIDUAL ENCASED WIRES, THE CASING WEARS DOWN, THE WIRES RISK BECOMING FUSED TOGETHER WITHIN THE HARNESS. THE CONSEQUENCES OF A FAULTY ENGINE WIRING HARNESS: 1.RPM READINGS DO NOT COINCIDE WITH THE MOTOR. THE VEHICLE STRUGGLES TO ACCELERATE FROM THE TRAFFIC LIGHT EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IDLES AT 2000 RPM. THEREFORE, THE TACHOMETER IS UNABLE TO READ THE ROTATION OF THE ENGINE'S CRANKSHAFT. 2.AS THE VEHICLE IN MOTION ENCOUNTERS AN INCLINE IT LOSES POWER AND IS UNABLE TO ACCELERATE ON ANY GRADE HILL, CAUSING THE ENGINE TO DUMP FUEL. IN SUCH INSTANCE ONE CAN WATCH THE FUEL GAUGE RECESS QUICKLY FROM FULL TO EMPTY. 3.WHETHER THE ENGINE IS TURNED ON OR OFF, THE TAIL LIGHT AND HORN WILL ALSO SHORT OUT, PRESENTING FAULTY CIRCUITS.

FORD FOCUS SHUTS OFF WHEN YOU PRESS THE BRAKES. IT CRANKS BACK UP FINE BUT WHENEVER YOU PULL OFF AND STOP OR TRY TO SLOW DOWN THE CAR WILL SHUT DOWN. IT IS HAPPENING CONSTANTLY NOW.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING, AN ABNORMAL POPPING NOISE WAS COMING FROM THE RADIO. IN ADDITION, THE RADIO FAILED TO OPERATE AND THEN OPERATED INDEPENDENTLY. AFTER ATTEMPTING TO THE LOCK THE DOORS WHILE INSIDE THE VEHICLE, THE DOORS FAILED TO LOCK WHILE DRIVING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BLUE SPRINGS FORD (3200 NW SOUTH OUTER RD, BLUE SPRINGS, MO 64015), BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED DUE TO THE COST. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 86,000.

I PURCHASE A 2013 FORD FOCUS JULY OF 2013. ABOUT 3 MONTHS AFTER I PURCHASED THE CAR, IT STARTED TO JERK AS I WOULD PRESS THE GAS TO ACCELERATE THE AUTO. I'VE TAKEN IT INTO THE DEALERSHIP ABOUT 6 TIMES SINCE. THEY'VE RESET THE SYSTEM AND ABOUT A MONTH LATER, THE CARD WOULD JERK AGAIN. THIS PAST SUMMER, IN A PARKING LOT OF A SHOPPING CENTER MY CAR WOULDN'T TURN ON. I HAD TO CALL A TOWING COMPANY AND TAKE IT INTO THE DEALERSHIP AGAIN TO HAVE CHECKED OUT. THEY SAID IT WAS DUE TO THE CLUTCH, IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS REPLACED AND THE JERKING CONTINUED TO THE POINT I WAS SO USED TO IT, I FORGOT ABOUT IT. A FEW NIGHTS AGO I HAD THE MOST TERRIFYING SITUATIONS WHILE DRIVING. AS I WAS DRIVING, I'D PRESS THE BRAKE TO STOP AT THE RED LIGHT AND THE CAR KEPT WANTING TO ACCELERATE, MAKING THE SYSTEM GO CRAZY AND THE CAR DIEING. I WAS ABLE TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON BUT IT DIED AGAIN. THE DEALERSHIP NOW SAYS ITS THE CLUTCH AND SOMETHING ON THE TRANSMISSION THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. NOW, I GET A CALL SAYING THEY CANNOT REPLACE THE CLUTCH UNTIL I REPLACE THE RELEASE BARING, WHICH I HAVE TO PAY OUT OF POCKET. MY LIFE WAS IN DANGER AND I COULD HAVE EASILY CRASHED INTO ANOTHER CAR. I AM SO FURIOUS WITH FORD AND WILL NEVER PURCHASE ANOTHER CAR FROM THEM. I DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW I HAVE TO PAY OUT OF POCKET FOR A PART THAT IS ON RECALL TO BE REPLACED. VERY UPSET!

WE HAD HE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME. A CHECK OF THE CODE SHOWED A FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM PROBLEM. WE ALSO NOTICED THAT WHEN TRYING TO FUEL THE VEHICLE WHEN PLACING THE FUEL NOZZLE INTO THE FUEL FILL A RUSH OF AIR WOULD ESCAPE. AFTER FUELING THE CAR WOULD NOT START. ONCE WE GET THE CAR STARTED IT WOULD RUN ROUGH FOR SEVERAL MILES. ALSO, THE FUEL GAUGE WAS WRONG. THE FUEL GAUGE WOULD SHOW 1/2 TANK BUT WE RAN OUT OF GAS. THE MECHANIC HAD TO REPLACE THE FUEL TANK, OUR MECHANIC HAD TO REPLACE THE FUEL TANK, PURGE VALVE AND ASSOCIATED HOSES, FUEL PUMP. ALSO, ANOTHER PROBLEM AROSE WITH THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. ALL OF THE GAUGES INCLUDING THE RADIO WENT BLANK AND WOULD NOT FUNCTION. THE MECHANIC HAD TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND RESET THE COMPUTER FOR THE INSTRUMENTS AND RADIO TO BEGIN WORKING AGAIN.

ALL LIGHTS COME ON AND THE TRANSMISSION JERKS AND HAZING IN MOVEING AND THE ELECTRIC WITH THE TRUNK AND LIGHTS AND THE DOORS AND THE ALARM. BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS FOR ABOUT A YEAR.

LOUD CRACKLING/POPPING/STATIC SOUND COMES FROM RADIO AT RANDOM INTERVALS, RADIO THEN STOPS PRODUCING SOUND, HAVE TO TURN THE CAR OFF, OPEN & SHUT DOOR, THEN TURN CAR BACK ON THEN RADIO STARTS WORKING AGAIN. SAFETY CONCERN IS THE LOUDNESS OF THE SOUND COMING AT RANDOM TIMES IS STARTLING AND CAN CAUSE AN INVOLUNTARY JERK/JUMP. NUMEROUS PEOPLE HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUE- ONE EXAMPLE IS THIS FORUM: HTTP://WWW.FOCUSFANATICS.COM/FORUM/CAR-AUDIO-SYNC-MYFORD-TOUCH-ELECTRONICS/358625-CRACKLING-RADIO-PROBLEM-MY-2012-SEL-38.HTML. I HAVE VIDEO OF THE ISSUE, WHICH I CANNOT UPLOAD, BUT TYPE FORD RADIO ISSUE INTO YOUTUBE AND YOU'LL FIND LOTS OF EXAMPLES.

RADIO MAKES LOUD POPPING NOISES AND LOUD STATIC DISCHARGE SOUNDS. NOISE COMES FROM NOWHERE AND CONTINUES EVEN IF THE CAR IS SHUT OFF OR WITH THE CAR RUNNING. CAN'T ADJUST VOLUME ON RADIO TO LOWER SOUND. SOUND LIKE A GUN BEING SHOT NEAR YOUR EAR. VERY ANNOYING ESPECIALLY WHEN IN TRAFFIC.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED SEVERAL TIMES WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO RESTART; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PROGRESSED INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER (LANDMARK FORD, 2401 PRAIRIE CROSSING DR, SPRINGFIELD, IL 62711, (217) 862-5200) FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBERS: 14V495000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM) AND 15V813000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 40,000.

2013 FORD FOCUS AUDIO SYSTEM DOES NOT FUNCTION PROPERLY. CRACKS AND POP AT EXTREME VOLUMES EVEN WHEN SYSTEM VOLUME IS FULLY TURNED DOWN AND/OR OFF. ISSUE OCCURS EVEN PRIOR TO VEHICLE BEING STARTED, DOESN'T MATTER IF CAR IS RUNNING, DRIVING, AT A STOP, IN PARK, ETC. HAPPENS ALL THE TIME. EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SITUATION FOR DRIVER AS THE SOUND IS A SIMILAR VOLUME TO SOMEONE SETTING OFF FIREWORKS IN THE CAR. THIS WILL CAUSE ACCIDENTS FOR DRIVERS IF IT IS NOT CORRECTED. FORD CLAIMS THIS IS NOT A WIDESPREAD ISSUE BUT A SIMPLE GOOGLE SEARCH OF "FORD FOCUS AUDIO ISSUES" BRINGS UP MANY RESULTS PROVING OTHERWISE. NEEDS TO BE A RECALL. HAPPENS EVERY TIME I DRIVE THE CAR, BEGAN ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO AND HAS ONLY CONTINUED TO GET WORSE AND HAPPEN MORE OFTEN. AUDIO SYSTEM IS NOT OLD ENOUGH TO WHERE I SHOULD BE REQUIRED TO REPLACE. UNDER NORMAL CIRCUMSTANCES AN AUDIO SYSTEM SHOULD LAST AS LONG AS THE LIFE OF THE CAR, NOT FOUR YEARS. RIDICULOUS AND DANGEROUS, PLEASE CORRECT.

I HAVE READ MANY RECALLS ON THE WIRING ISSUE OF THE 2013 FORD FOCUS ST MODEL WITH IT STALLING OUT DUE TO FAULTY WIRING. MY 2013 FORD FOCUS SE IS DOING THE EXACT SAME THING PUTTING MY DAUGHTER'S LIFE AT RISK EVERY TIME SHE GETS IN IT AS WELL AS MY OWN AND WRAY FORD IN SHREVEPORT LA SAYS SORRY CANT HELP YOU...IT'S NOT ON THE RECALL SINCE ITS NOT AN ST AND YOU WILL HAVE TO PAY FOR THE REPAIRS. THIS IS GARBAGE FORD IS NOT STANDING BEHIND THEIR PRODUCT AND I AM THE LITTLE GUY. THIS IS THE SECOND RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE AND THE SE IS NOT BEING TAKEN CARE OF WITH THE IDENTICAL ISSUE. RUNS FINE WHEN DRIVING, BUT WHEN AT A LIGHT OR STOP SIGN, IT SHAKES, GAUGES GO CRAZY AND THEN SHUTS OFF. I JUST BOUGHT THIS CAR AND OF COURSE WHEN I GOT IT HOME THAT'S WHEN THE ISSUES STARTED. PURCHASED AS IS NO WARRANTY AND OF COURSE WAS NOT TOLD OF THE ISSUES BUT ONLY THAT I SHOULD CALL TO SEE IF THERE ARE ANY RECALLS. HELP! FUNNY THING IS THAT IT STALLED ON ME AT THE RED LIGHT TURNING INTO WRAY FORD IN SHREVEPORT.

HORN BEGAN INTERMITTENTLY FAILING, WHEN DOUBLE LOCKING THE CAR THE HORN CHIRP WOULD EITHER NOT SOUND OR WOULD SOUND BUT QUIETLY AS IF IT WAS DYING. THE SAME THING OCCURRED WHEN TRYING TO ENGAGE THE HORN BY DEPRESSING THE CENTER OF THE STEERING WHEEL. SOMETIMES IT WORKED OTHERS IT DIDN'T AND SOMETIMES IT SOUNDED FAINT AND CUT OFF EARLY. AFTER ABOUT A MONTH THE HORN STOPPED WORKING ENTIRELY. WHEN TRYING TO ENGAGE THE HORN FROM THE STEERING WHEEL I HEAR A CLICK LIKE A MICRO SWITCH ENGAGING BUT NO SOUND. MY HORN WILL NOT SOUND WHETHER I AM PARKED AND STATIONARY OR WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY OR CITY STREETS, ALL I HEAR IT THE SOUND OF A MICRO SWITCH CLICK. I AM CURRENTLY AT THE FORD DEALERSHIP AND THE LITTLE METAL CONNECTORS FOR THE HORN ARE CORRODED AND AFTER CLEANING THEM OFF THE HORN WORKS FINE AGAIN. DUE TO THE LOCATION OF THE HORN I HAVE TO PAY QUITE A BIT FOR THIS AND DISCOVERED IT IS A KNOWN AND COMMON PROBLEM.

THERE IS A GROUP OF ELECTRICAL CABLES IN THE TRUNK OF THE VEHICLE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE THAT CONTROLS ALL THE LIGHTS THAT ARE ATTACHED TO THE TRUNK LID. THIS INCLUDES THE BRAKE LIGHTS. WHEN OPENING AND CLOSING THE TRUNK, THIS GROUP OF CABLES RUBS UP AGAINST A METAL BAR. EVENTUALLY THIS CAN CAUSE THE ELECTRICAL CABLES TO LOSE THEIR PROTECTIVE TAPE AND POSSIBLY CUT THE CABLES, LEADING TO A COMPLETE LOSS OF BRAKE LIGHTS, REVERSE LIGHTS, AND TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS. ADDITIONAL DETAILS CAN BE FOUND AT THE FOLLOWING LINK. HTTP://WWW.FOCUSFANATICS.COM/FORUM/MK3-FOCUS/312776-SEDAN-OWNERS-WATCH-POTENTIAL-WIRE-FAILURE-TRUNK.HTML I HAVE CONTACTED MY LOCAL FORD DEALER, BUT THEY DID NOT SEEM TO CARE. THEY HAVE MADE OBTAINING APPOINTMENTS TO FIX OTHER RECALLS EXTREMELY DIFFICULT AND IT ALMOST SEEMS LIKE THEY WISH TO IGNORE NHTSA RECALLS INSTEAD OF MAKING VEHICLES SAFE.

FORD FOCUS 2013 SE - WHILE DRIVING (IN MOTION), DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR UNLATCHED AND SWUNG OPEN, AND WOULD NOT CLOSE, HORN STOPPED WORKING, INTERIOR DISPLAYS AND LIGHTS FLICKERED, WHEN PULLED OVER, CAR WOULD NOT START. IF WE WERE ON A HIGHWAY IT WOULD HAVE BEEN TREMENDOUSLY DANGEROUS. LATER CAR DID START, BUT DOOR WOULD NOT LATCH, RADIO WAS RESET, HAZARDS WOULD TURN ON AND OFF AT RANDOM. DOOR LATCH AND HORN WOULD NOT WORK AFTER THIS EVENT. SHORTLY PRIOR TO THIS ISSUE, HORN STARTED WORKING AT RANDOM, WIPERS WOULD NOT TURN OFF. WHEN INSPECTED, ADVISED BATTERY WAS BAD AND HAD CORRODED NEGATIVE WIRE TO BATTERY. ONE WEEK AFTER REPLACED, THIS EVENT OCCURRED. CLUTCH IN VEHICLE ALSO JITTERS WHEN INCREASING SPEED FROM FULL STOP, ALLEGEDLY CORRECTED AT FORD DEALERSHIP AFTER RECALL (2 YEARS AGO). PER RESEARCH THIS ISSUE IS BEING CAUSED BY A FAULTY CLUTCH INTERFERING WITH ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.

CAR WON'T START AFTER REFUELING.... TAKES SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO CRANK BEFORE BARELY FIRING UP, RANDOM ROUGH IDLE AND RPMS WILL DROP AND THE CAR WILL STALL FOR NO REASON. ALL PROBLEMS WITH IDLE WILL COME AND GO, IT WILL RUN FINE FOR A BIT, THEN THE IDLE PROBLEM WILL COME BACK. THE PROBLEM CRANKING THE CA RAFTER PUTTING GAS IN IS EVERY TIME I GET GAS.

THE BODY CONTROL MODULE FAILED. AFTER ONLY 4 YEARS AND 53K MILES ON THE ROAD THE BCM SIMPLY STOPPED WORKING. THE CAR WAS NOT SHOWING ANY OF THE SIGNS OF A FAILING BCM (ELECTRICAL GLITCHES, ENGINE ISSUES, ETC.). AS FAR AS I KNEW, UNTIL THE COMPONENT FAILED THE CAR WAS IN PERFECT CONDITION. THE CAR WAS PARKED OUTSIDE MY OFFICE WHEN THE PART FAILED. WHEN I MADE MY 20 MINUTE COMMUTE TO WORK AROUND 7:30AM IT OPERATED FINE. WHEN I RETURNED TO THE VEHICLE AROUND 5PM THE KEY FOB WOULD NOT WORK, THE INSTRUMENTATION PANEL WOULD NOT LIGHT UP AND THE ENGINE WOULD NOT TURN OVER. I TRIED JUMPING THE BATTERY MULTIPLE TIMES WITH NO IMPROVEMENT. THE CAR WAS COMPLETELY DEAD. WE HAD TO MANUALLY OVERRIDE THE BRAKES JUST TO GET THE CAR LOADED ONTO A TOW TRUCK. MECHANICS SPENT MORE THAN 4 HOURS LOOKING OVER THE VEHICLE TO DETERMINE THE SOURCE OF THE ISSUE. AFTER MULTIPLE TESTS THEY DETERMINED THAT THE TCM WAS WORKING FINE (FORD ISSUED A CSP FOR TCMS ON THIS BUILD) AND THAT THE BCM FAILED. THEY TOLD ME THAT TYPICALLY A BCM WILL FAIL IF THERE IS AN ACCIDENT, WATER DAMAGE OR A SHORT, BUT THEY ALSO CONFIRMED THAT THIS VEHICLE SHOWED NO SIGNS THE FAILURE WAS CAUSED BY THESE PROBLEMS. THEY ALSO TOLD ME THAT THE PART CAN FAIL WITH AGE, HOWEVER, THIS IS A NEWER MODEL YEAR WITH RELATIVELY LOW MILEAGE. WHILE I WAS FORTUNATE THAT MY CAR FAILED WHEN THE CAR WAS PARKED, I WORRY THAT OTHER DRIVERS MAY NOT BE SO LUCKY. IT SOUNDS LIKE THIS PART COULD FAIL WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION, AND IF IT DOES, CAN CAUSE ENGINE PROBLEMS AND RESULT IN SUDDEN DANGEROUS DRIVING CONDITIONS. THIS IS EVEN MORE CONCERNING KNOWING THAT THERE ARE OTHER VEHICLES OUT THERE WITH THIS VERSION OF BCM AND THAT THEY CAN FAIL PREMATURELY TOO.

THIS CAR EXPERIENCES SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER LEADING TO THE INABILITY TO ACCELERATE OR EVEN MOVE THE VEHICLE FOR VARYING LENGTHS OF TIME. THIS IS LEFT ME STRANDED IN DANGEROUS SITUATIONS THREE TIMES. TWICE I WAS IN TRAFFIC (COMING OFF THE I-95 NORTH AND NEEDING TO MERGE MY EXIT, THEN WHEN STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT IN A LEFT TURN LANE) . MOST RECENTLY THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START UP AFTER BEING IN A PARKED. IN THE LATTER EPISODE JUMP-STARTS DID NOT HELP. WHILE THE DASH LIGHTS EVENTUALLY CAME ON, AND THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS WERE ABLE TO MOVE ONE TO TWO TIMES AND THEN DIED, THE ENGINE SIMPLY WOULD NOT TURN OVER. INITIAL EVALUATIONS BY THE DEALER FOR AN ENGINE LIGHT GAVE AN "OVERSPEED CODE" WHICH WAS NOT RELEVANT TO DRIVING CONDITIONS.

AS I WAS WAITING FOR LIGHT TO TURN GREEN AT A BUSY INTERSECTION MY CAR STALLS. IT WAS ACTING AS IF I HAD PUT MY CAR IN PARK AND ACCELERATE THE GAS. ON MY DASH BOARD I NOTICE THE SYMBOL AS IF MY TRACTION WAS ON. I TURNED MY CAR OFF AND TRIES TO RESTART IT. IT WILL NOT TURN OVER. NOT EVEN MAKING A SOUND. MIND YOU I AM AT A VERY BUSY INTERSECTION. THIS IS SO DANGEROUS ESPECIALLY IF THIS WOULD HAVE HAPPENED ON THE FREEWAY.

WIRES IN THE REAR RIGHT LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT HAVE BECOME EXPOSED AND/OR BROKEN FROM REGULAR OPENING AND CLOSING OF THE LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT LID. THE WIRES ARE RESTRICTED IN MOTION SUCH THAT THEY BEND WITH EVERY OPENING AND CLOSING OF THE LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT. THIS LEAD TO A BREAKING OF WIRES WHICH CAUSED THE TRUNK LIGHT AND OPENING MECHANISM TO FAIL. EXPOSED WIRES CAN LEAD TO MANY MORE PROBLEMS LIKE SHORTING THE BATTERY OR AN ELECTRICAL FIRE.

I'VE RESEARCHED AND HAVE DISCOVERED THAT THE RADIO HEAD IS BAD. WHILE DRIVING, THERE IS A RIDICULOUSLY LOUD STATIC NOISE THAT PULSES AT ANY GIVEN TIME. EVEN WHEN I TURN THE IGNITION OFF, IT STILL STATICS LOUDLY - YOU CAN HEAR IT WHILE WALKING AWAY AND THE WINDOWS ARE UP

"TAKATA RECALL": ABOUT ONE MONTH AGO THE HORN STARTED WORKING INTERMITTENTLY BEFORE CEASING TO WORK AT ALL. IT WILL NOT WORK WHERE THE CAR IS PARKED OR IN DRIVE. I BOUGHT THE CAR LESS THAN A YEAR AGO. IN GENERAL IT HAS HAD OTHER ISSUES WITH THE ELECTRONICS IN THE CAR, ANYTHING HAVING TO DO WITH THE MEDIA SYSTEM (AUXILIARY, USB, SYNC AUDIO, ETC HAVE ALL STOPPED WORKING) SINCE I BOUGHT IT IN JUNE 2016. I CANNOT OBVIOUSLY HONK THE HORN WHILE DRIVING AND COMMUNICATE EFFECTIVELY WITH OTHER DRIVERS ON THE ROAD. THE CAR HAS ~53000 MILES.

WHILE DRIVING ON A MAIN THOROUGHFARE AT 50MPH MY 2013 FORD FOCUS ENGINE SHUTDOWN. I COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. LUCKILY THIS DID NOT CAUSE AN ACCIDENT BECAUSE NO OTHER VEHICLES WERE ON THE ROAD. WHEN I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE CAR SHOP I WAS NOTIFIED THE ELECTRICAL WIRES HAD FRAYED, KILLING THE ENGINE, AND WAS A KNOWN ISSUE. THERE IS A BULLETIN ON 2013 FORD FOCUS DOCUMENTING THIS PROBLEM (TSB 15-0036). SERVICE REPRESENTATIVE REPAIRED THE HARNESS AT THROTTLE BODY.

ABOUT 1 AM THIS MORNING I LEFT WORK AND STARTED DOWN THE HIGHWAY WITH THE GAS GAUGE READING 44 MILES TO EMPTY. SINCE IT WAS RATHER LATE I DECIDED TO GO HOME AND JUST GET GAS IN THE MORNING BUT ABOUT HALFWAY HOME IT IT DROPPED ALL THE WAY FROM 44 DOWN TO 17 AND THEN ABOUT A MILE LATER RAN OUT OF GAS. THIS WAS AN ISSUE BUT NOT THE ONE I'M OVERLY CONCERNED ABOUT RIGHT NOW. I PLACED ON MY HAZARDS AND TRIED TO FLAG DOWN SOME HELP TO GET TO THE GAS STATION I HAD TO LEAVE THE CAR PARKED IN A CURVE AND THOUGH I WAS OFF THE ROAD IT WASN'T BY MUCH SO I LEFT THE HAZARDS ON. WHEN I CAME BACK ROUGHLY AN HOUR AND A HALF LATER THE BATTERY WAS COMPLETELY DEAD. I GOT GAS INTO THE CAR AND GOT THE BATTERY JUMPED AND THEN STARTED THE VEHICLE WITH ONE MAJOR ISSUE THE INSTRUMENT PANEL HAD GONE COMPLETELY DARK SO THERE WAS NO WAY OF TELLING HOW FAST I WAS GOING NOR COULD I SEE HOW MUCH FUEL WAS IN THE TANK OR ENGINE TEMPERATURE. THE OTHER ISSUE WAS THE TURN SIGNALS ALSO STOPPED WORKING. TODAY I CHECKED ALL THE FUSES AND WHEN I PULLED OUT THE ONE FOR THE INSTRUMENT PANEL IT WAS ABSOLUTELY FINE BUT WHEN I PUT IT BACK IN EVERYTHING CAME BACK TO LIFE LIKE THERE WASN'T A PROBLEM ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF LATER IN HEAVY TRAFFIC IT ALL WENT DARK AGAIN SO I WAS UNABLE TO USE MY TURN SIGNAL OR TELL HOW FAST I WAS GOING. ONCE AGAIN I JUST PULLED OUT THE SAME FUSE AND PUSH IT BACK IN AND EVERYTHING WAS FINE. THIS JUST SEEMS LIKE IT COULD BE A REAL DANGEROUS ISSUE AND AS I READ ONLINE THIS CAR SEEMS TO HAVE A PLETHORA OF THEM ALSO THE ISSUE WITH NOT GETTING AN ACCURATE READING OF HOW MUCH GAS IS IN YOUR TANK IS ALSO A PROBLEM. THE GENTLEMAN FROM THE STORE WHO HELPED ME PUT GAS IN THE CAR AND JUMP IT SAID HE HAS THE EXACT SAME MODEL FOR HIS WIFE AND THAT HE WAS TOLD WHEN SHE RAN OUT OF GAS IT WAS BECAUSE THE PLASTIC TANK MELTED AND CHANGE SHAPES ALLOWING INACCURATE READING OF THE AMOUNT OF FUEL LEFT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE FOR APPROXIMATELY TWENTY MINUTES. THE DEALER WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS INTERMITTENT. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 60,000.

RADIO SHORT -- THE RADIO HAS STOPPED WORKING AND MAKES A VERY LOUD POPPING SOUND. IT BEGAN AS ONE LOUD POP. IF YOU RESTARTED THE CAR THE RADIO WOULD WORK. NOW, EVEN WITH THE RADIO OFF, THE SPEAKERS WILL MAKE AN EXTREMELY LOUD POPPING SOUND. IT HAPPENS RANDOMLY, AND CAN HAPPEN OUT OF THE BLUE. WHEN IT HAPPENS IT IS VERY SUDDEN, AND VERY LOUD, LOUD ENOUGH TO CAUSE YOU TO SLAM ON THE BRAKES, OR IMMEDIATELY JERK THE WHEEL DUE TO FRIGHT. THE RADIO MAKES STATIC WITHOUT THE RADIO TURNED ON, AND EVEN WHEN YOU ARE NOT IN THE CAR. THERE IS AN ACTIVE THREAD ONLINE HTTP://WWW.FOCUSFANATICS.COM/FORUM/CAR-AUDIO-SYNC-MYFORD-TOUCH-ELECTRONICS/358625-CRACKLING-RADIO-PROBLEM-MY-2012-SEL.HTML THAT GAVE ME THE INFORMATION I NEEDED TO HELP DIAGNOSE AND REMOVE THE FUSE. THE LOUDNESS OF THE ISSUE, THE RANDOMNESS, INABILITY TO MAINTAIN FOCUS ON THE ROAD IS A SERIOUS ISSUE. IN REMOVING THE FUSE I NOW HAVE LOST THE LOCK/UNLOCK FUNCTION OF THE DOORS AND THE ABILITY TO USE MY FLASHERS. I WILL BE GOING TO FORD TO HAVE THE RADIO HEAD UNIT REMOVED UNTIL I CAN RESOLVE THIS WITH FORD. IT IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING AND ATTEMPTED TO USE THE HORN, THE HORN FAILED TO FUNCTION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

WHILE DRIVING I CAME TO A STOP SIGN AND AS I STARTED TO LET OUT THE CLUTCH AND MOVING ROUGHLY 10 MPH MY CAR ENGINE COMPLETELY SHUT OFF AND POWER STEERING WAS LOST. INTERIOR LIGHTS WERE STILL FUNCTIONAL BUT WHEN I WENT TO START UP THE CAR AGAIN IT WOULD NOT TURN OVER. THIS IS A MANUAL TRANSMISSION BUT NOTHING WAS WORKING TO GET IT STARTED AGAIN. THIS TO ME IS UNACCEPTABLE FLAW IN THE SYSTEM THAT PUT ME AT RISK OF CAUSING AN ACCIDENT. BEING STUCK IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION AND WITHOUT POWER TO THE ENGINE. I AM FORTUNATE ENOUGH THAT I WAS ON SIDE STREETS AND NOT ON A HIGHWAY AS THIS ISSUE COULD HAVE CAUSED A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. I TOOK IT TO A GARAGE TO GET IT FIXED AND THEY TOLD ME THAT MY MODEL WAS NOT UNDER RECALL. DOING SOME RESEARCH FOUND FORDS RECALL 14S17-S1 FOR THE FORD FOCUS ST SAME YEAR (2013) AS MINE WITH THE EXACT PROBLEM MY CAR HAD. THE GARAGE THAT I AM RECEIVING THE REPAIRS AT TOLD ME THEY FOUND 5 WIRES THAT WERE SEVERED AND WAS PART OF THE PROBLEM. I HAVE YET TO GET THE FULL DIAGNOSTICS FROM THE GARAGE BUT WILL BE ADDING THE DOCUMENT TO THE REPORT ONCE THIS HAS BEEN RESOLVED AND ALL ISSUES ARE MADE AWARE. *TR

AT APPROXIMATELY 2:30 AM THIS MORNING 12/31/16, OUR FORD FOCUS BURST INTO FLAMES WHILE STATIONARY IN A PARKING LOT. THANK GOD WE AND OUR 11 MONTH OLD WERE NOT IN THE CAR AT THE TIME. WE HAVE HAD THIS CAR INTO THE SHOP AT LEAST TWICE FOR TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS THEN OUR ENTIRE MULTI INFORMATION SCREEN INCLUDING RADIO QUIT WORKING, THEY REFUSED TO FIX BECAUSE WE WERE OUT OF WARRANTY. WE HAVE BARELY HAD THIS CAR FOR ONE YEAR AND HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS. NOW WE HAVE NO CAR BECAUSE IT IS TOTALED FROM THE FIRE. THE POLICE BASED ON INITIAL INVESTIGATION SAID IT WAS AN ELECTRICAL FIRE. I HAVE SEEN ANOTHER 2013 FORD FOCUS CATCH FIRE IN AUSTRALIA AND OTHER PLACES. I WOULD LIKE THIS TO BE INVESTIGATED SO THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN TO OTHER PEOPLE.

I HAVE HAD MY PRE-OWNED VEHICLE FOR 1 1/2 YEARS AND HAVE HAD CONTINUOUS ISSUES WITH MY TRUNK POPPING OPEN RANDOMLY. IT OPENS ANYWHERE AND AT RANDOM TIMES. I'VE HAD IT OPEN WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE, WHICH IS A HUGE SAFETY HAZARD, POTENTIALLY HAVING THINGS FROM TRUNK FLY OUT AND HIT ANOTHER MOTORIST. IT HAS BEEN LOOKED AT TWICE BY BAXTER FORD IN OMAHA, NE. THEY CAN NEVER SEEM TO FIND THE ISSUE OR HAVE IT "DUPLICATE" ON THEIR TIME. THIS DEFINITELY SOUNDS LIKE A MANUFACTURER DEFECT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THERE WAS MISFIRE COMING FROM THE COIL PACK. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS WHILE ACCELERATING, THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL VIBRATION COMING FROM THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS OPERATING AS INTENDED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V813000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,000.

MANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS FORD FOCUS.1ST PROBLEM I HAD WAS A YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE THE FUEL PUMP WAS LEAKING.I NOTICE BECAUSE MY CAR WAS PARKED AND IT SMELLED LIKE GASOLINE INSIDE THE VEHICLE.2ND INCIDENT HAPPENED A YEAR LATER. I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK WHEN CAR JUST SHUT OFF ON THE ROAD. I WAS SO SCARED.I WAS IN NOTION BARELY MOVE TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD ON RT 50.THAT WAS SO SCARY I COULD HAVE DIED.I HAD TO TOW THE CAR TO GET SERVICED AT SHEEHY FORD. THEY GAVE ME THE CAR BACK AGAIN AND IT HAPPENED AGAIN ON THE ROAD ON MY WAY TO WORK. AT THAT TIME I TOWED IT AGAIN BUT TO KOONS FALLS CHURCH.LOOKED AT THE VEHICLE AND DIDN'T FIND ANYTHING EITHER UNTIL I GOT UPSET AND THEY TOLD ME TO GO FOR A TEST DRIVE WITH THE MECHANIC AND IT HAPPENED WHILE ON THE TEST DRIVE. THE MECHANIC STATED TO KEEP THE CAR RUNNING SO HE CAN PLUG IN THE MACHINE THAT READS THE PROBLEMS ON THE VEHICLE. HE ALSO STATED THAT ONCE YOU TURN OF THE CAR AND YOU TURN IT BACK ON THAT IT WOULD RESET IT SELF AND THAT'S WHY THEY DIDN'T KNOW THAT TCM OR TMC CONTROL NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THIS WAS VERY SCARY FOR ME.NOW FOR THE PASSED 3 WEEKS I HAVE BEEN DEALING WITH A STATIC /POPPING NOISE /SOUND THAT COMES FROM THE VEHICLE WHEN I'M DRIVING & WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED, THE KEY IS OUT THE IGNITION.I TOOK IT TO SHEEHY SINCE THAT'S WHERE I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE. THEY PROVIDE THE WORST SERVICE ON THE VEHICLE. BCUZ THEY HAD MY CAR FOR 4 DAYS AND DIDN'T PROVIDE ME WITH A LOANER AND HAD THE AUDACITY TO TELL ME THAT THE MASTER TECH WAS ON VACATION AND I WOULD HAVE TO WAIT STILL WITH NO LOANER VEHICLE.THE RADIO IS COMPLETELY OFF AND THEY WANT ME TO PAY OUT OF POCKET TO FIX IT.IT HAS JUST GIVEN ME PROBLEM AFTER PROBLEM IS MANUFACTURED PROBLEMS.I HAD SO MANY SAFETY ISSUES THAT SCARED ME.CAR SHUTTING OFF ON THE ROAD AND NOW MAKING LOUD POPPING/ STATIC NOISE WHERE I THOUGHT I MIGHT BE ELECTROCUTED.

I WAS TRYING TO TRADE IN MY CAR AND WHEN I CAME OUTSIDE TO START IT UP IT WOULDN'T DO ANYTHING AND THE CAR WAS TOWED TO THE NEAREST DEALERSHIP. IN ADDITION, I HAVE ALWAYS EXPERIENCED IDOLING AND JERKING WHEN TAKING OFF WHICH SEEMS LIKE TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS BECAUSE I HAVE HAD EXPERIENCE WITH THAT ISSUE. CURRENTLY STILL HAVE THE SAME ISSUES JERKING AND IDOLING WHEN TAKING OFF. WHEN MY CAR EXPERIENCED THE ELECTRIC PROBLEM WAS IN 2015 AND IT HAD ABOUT 30 TO 40,000 MILES ON IT BUT THE JERKING AND IDOLING HAVE ALWAYS OCCURRED AND I CHECKED THE RECALL BEFORE AND THEY TOLD ME THERE WASN'T A RECALL.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. UPON REFUELING THE VEHICLE, WHEN MAKING A STOP OR A TURN, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE DEALER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE SEVERAL TIMES AND WERE UNABLE TO FIND A SIGNAL OR DTC TO REPLICATE AND DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS TO CHECK WITH THE MANUFACTURER TO DETERMINE IF THEY COULD PROVIDE A REPAIR SOLUTION TO THE DEALER. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 27,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED FOR NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V813000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM) AND WHILE DRIVING AT 35 MPH, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED BUT THE VEHICLE HESITATED BEFORE MOVING FORWARD. IN ADDITION, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE VEHICLE NEEDED A NEW BATTERY CABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 35,000.

I SHUT THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR AND TOOK OFF DRIVING ON A CITY STREET WHEN THE DOOR AJAR CAME ON AND THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR FLEW OPEN , I CAUGHT THE DOOR , BUT IT WILL NO LONGER LATCH SHUT .

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE BATTERY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED ON NINE SEPARATE OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V813000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE. UPDATED 07/29/16*LJ

TAKATA RECALL PURCHASED CAR TOOK TO DEALER A WEEK AFTER BECAUSE THE GEAR SHIFT WAS MAKING LOUD NOISE UPON REVERSE IN DRIVEWAY TWO WEEKS LATER I HEAD A LOUD POP AND IT BROKE ACCORDING TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY DID NOT FIX IT NOW MY LIGHTS WON'T TURN OFF IT SAYS MY TRUNK IS OPEN WHILE IT'S CLOSED AND MY DRIVER DOOR WILL NOT LOCK OR STAY CLOSED AND THE CAR MAKES NOISES AS IF THE KEY IS IN THE IGNITION AND IT'S NOT MY DOOR WILL NOT LOCK AND MY TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN WITH THE KEY.

I WENT TO START MY 2013 FORD FUSION AND ALL OF THE ELECTRICAL CONTROLS IN FRONT OF THE STEERING WHEEL DID NOT WORK,GAUGES,READOUT SCREEN,TACH,SPEEDOMETER,TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LIGHTS. AS I HAVE PANCREATIC CANCER(STAGE 4) IT IS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE FOR ME TOCRAWL AROUND UNDER THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT TO CHECK THE FUSES. ONE OF MY BROTHERS-IN-LAW CAME OVER AND FOUND THE FUSE BOX AND LOOKED AT SEVERAL FUSES BUT NONE WERE BLOWN. HE PULLED SEVERAL FUSES AND NOTICED THEY WERE CORRODE ON THE MALE ENDS, AS WAS THE FEMALE END OF THE FUSE BOX. I HAD NOTICED FOR SEVERAL DAYS THE COMPUTER SCREEN IN FRONT OF THE STEERING WHEEL WAS SLOW TO COME ON. MY CAR WAS PARKED IN MY DRIVEWAY IN A STATIONARY CONDITION. THIS SEEMS TO BE TO BE A VERY DANGEROUS CONDITION, ESPECIALLY IF IT HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING, YOU HAVE NO SPEEDOMETER NO TACH,NO TURN SIGNALS,ECT. ANYTHING THAT IS CONTROLLED BY THAT FUSE. I HAVE HAD CARS SINCE 1963 AND NEVER ENCOUNTERED THAT PROBLEM(CORED FUSE ENDS). NOR HAVE I EVER HAD A CAR WITH AN AUTO TRANSMISSION THAT "SHUDDERED" WHEN GOING FROM A STANDING STOP. YOU CANNOT CHECK THE FLUID, THERE IS NO DIPSTICK. I GUESS THEY ARE ALL IN DEARBORN,MICH AT THE FORD HEADQUARTERS(JUST A LITTLE HUMOR). IF THE TRUTH WAS KNOWN FORD KNEW ABOUT THE CORRODING FUSE BOX, SAME AS THE TORQUE CONVERTERS AND TRANSAXLES IN THE FORD 2000 - 2006 TAURUS', YES I HAVE HAD MY BOUT WITH THEM ALSO.

70 AMP FUSE BLOWS WHILE DRIVING, SEEMINGLY AT RANDOM TIMES. THIS FUSE FEEDS POWER TO A FUSE PANEL LOCATED IN TRUNK. WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS THE RADIO, POWER WINDOWS, POWER LOCKS, POWER SEATS AND HEATED SEAT FUNCTION, PARKING AID SYSTEM, AND SMART KEY SYSTEM DO NOT FUNCTION. DUE TO THE SMART KEY NOT WORKING IT MAKES THE CAR EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO RESTART IF IT HAD BEEN SHUT OFF. IF THE ISSUE HAPPENS WHILE DRIVING THE CAR WILL CONTINUE TO RUN NORMALLY OTHER THAN THE NOTED SYSTEMS. I HAD THE CAR AT THE DEALER TWICE FOR A TOTAL OF TWO WEEKS, THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE ISSUE AFTER REPLACING THE FUSE AND DRIVING THE CAR AROUND TOWN. I GOT THE CAR HOME TODAY AFTER IT'S SECOND TRIP TO THE DEALER AND TOOK APART A PANEL IN THE TRUNK THAT COVERS THE SUSPECT FUSE PANEL AND WIRING. I FOUND THAT THE WIRE BUNDLE FOR THIS FUSE BOX RUNS THROUGH A PLASTIC GUARD UNTIL ABOUT A FOOT AWAY FROM THE FUSE BOX, WHEN THE WIRES EXIT THIS GUARD THEY RUN TIGHT AROUND THE EDGE OF THE TRUNK AND COME INTO CONTACT WITH A SHARP METAL EDGE, THIS EDGE HAD CUT THROUGH THE INSULATION OF THE MAIN POWER FEED AND SHORTED OUT. I HAVE ATTACHED PICTURES OF WHAT I FOUND. WHILE THE CIRCUIT WAS PROTECTED BY A 70 AMP FUSE, IT STILL MUST HAVE CREATED A GOOD AMOUNT OF HEAT DURING THE TIME IT WAS SHORTED, AND THERE IS A FELT PANEL NOT A FEW INCHES AWAY.

ENGINE WILL STOP RUNNING INTERMITTENTLY WHILE DRIVING ON CITY STREETS OR WHILE TURNING OFF OF A HIGHWAY. ALSO, OCCASIONALLY WILL DIE AT A STOP LIGHT. VEHICLE HAS A ROUGH AND ERRATIC IDLE WHILE STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT. SOMETIMES IDLING SO LOW AS TO ALMOST DIE. OTHER TIMES IDLING AT 1400 OR 1500 RPMS

I HAVE A 2013 FOCUS AND ON 3/14/16 ON MY WAY HOME ON THE FREEWAY, MY OIL & BATTERY LIGHT STARTED FLICKERING ON AND OFF AT THE SAME TIME AND AS IT DID THE CAR WAS STALLING OUT. I PUT MY 4-WAY FLASHERS ON, SLOWED DOWN AND MOVED TO THE RIGHT LANE AS A SAFETY MEASURE. AFTER ANOTHER FEW MILES BOTH LIGHTS CAME ON AND STAYED ON AND THE CAR SHUT DOWN. I PULLED OVER TO THE BERM, WAITED A FEW MINUTES, TRIED STARTING, IT STARTED AND DROVE HOME WITH NO ISSUES. I DROVE TO WORK THE NEXT DAY WITH NO ISSUES. ON THE WAY HOME THINGS STARTED HAPPENING AGAIN, THE CAR SHUT DOWN, BUT THIS TIME AFTER WAITING A FEW MINUTES THE CAR NEVER STARTED. I HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALER AND THEY FOUND THAT A WIRING HARNESS WAS UP AGAINST THE THROTTLE BODY AND WORE THROUGH THE PROTECTIVE INSULATING TAPE, THEN THE WIRES CAUSING THE PROBLEM. ALSO, IN SPEAKING TO THE MECHANIC HE SAID THAT THE BRACKET THE HARNESS WAS USING TO KEEP IN PLACE WAS CAUSING IT TO BE UP AGAINST THE THROTTLE BODY SO HE UNCLIPPED THE BRACKET. I'M GOING TO CALL THE FORD CUSTOMER SERVICE CENTER TO DISCUSS. ANOTHER ISSUE WAS THAT THE "BOOK" SAID IT WOULD TAKE 3 HOURS, BUT ONLY TOOK 2. AND YES THEY TRIED TO CHARGE ME FOR THE 3. INTERESTING AT $125/ HOUR, THAT WOULD BE $250/ HOUR THEY'RE MAKING WHILE THE MECHANIC STARTS ON THE NEXT CAR! UNBELIEVABLE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE STALED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO RESTART. THE FAILURE RECURRED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE OIL NEEDED TO BE CHANGED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBERS: 15V813000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM) AND 14V495000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 51,000.

WHILE ON A HIGHWAY (AUGUST 2015), VEHICLE TRANSMISSION BEGAN TO SLIP FOLLOWED BY THE CAR SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING AT FREEWAY SPEEDS, VEHICLE WOULD NOT TURN BACK ON AND LEFT ME STRANDED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY. NOVEMBER 2015, WHILE DRIVING ALONG FREEWAY, CAR TRANSMISSION BEGAN TO SLIP, CAUSING THE CAR TO AGAIN SHUT OFF COMPLETELY WHILE DRIVING AT 65MPH. DECEMBER 2015, DRIVING ON A CITY STREET, ONCE AGIN TRANSMISSION STARTED SLIPPING AND VEHICLE SHUT OFF IN MID MOTION WHILE GOING 30 MPH. IN FEBRUARY 2016, VEHICLE STARTED NORMALLY, ONCE WE PULLED OUT ONTO A ROAD, CAR BEGAN VIOLENTLY BUCKING TRANSMISSION SEEMED TO ENGAGE THEN DISENGAGE PLACING THE VEHICLE IN DANGER OF BEING HIT BY CARS FROM BEHIND, AND JOSTLING PASSENGERS SUBSTANTIALLY. IN MARCH 2016, VEHICLE WAS DRIVING 70 MPH DOWN FREEWAY WHEN TRANSMISSION SLIPPED, THE TRANSMISSION THEN SEEMED TO ENGAGE NORMALLY AGAIN, BUT AS VEHICLE EXITED FREEWAY ON FEEDER ROAD, TRANSMISSION DISENGAGED, BUCKING CAR, DRIVER HAD GAS PEDAL FLOORED AND THE VEHICLE WOULD ONLY MOVE A FEW FEET. AFTER TRANSMISSION RE ENGAGED, THE CAR LURCHED FORWARD WITHOUT DRIVERS FOOT ON GAS, PUTTING VEHICLE AT RISK FOR HITTING CAR IN FRONT OF IT. EACH TIME VEHICLE HAS HAD AN INCIDENT, WE HAVE TAKEN IT TO A LOCAL FORD DEALERSHIP, TRANSMISSION COMPUTER MODULE WAS REPLACED, CLUTCHES REPLACED, TRANSMISSION RE PROGRAMMED 3 TIME, PCM REPLACED. EACH TIME VEHICLE HAS BEEN GIVEN BACK WITHIN A MONTH THEIR IS AN ISSUE. FORD HAS TOLD US THAT THEY REALLY DO TO HAVE A FIX FOR THE PROBLEMS, AND EACH TIME WE ARE GIVEN AN UNSAFE VEHICLE BACK THAT HAS IMPOSED DANGER ON OUR LIVES AND OTHERS ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS. FORD EVEN RETURNED VEHICLE AFTER IT HAD STALLED ON THEM, BECAUSE THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING ELSE WRONG. WE HAVE BEEN VERY LUCKY THAT EACH INCIDENT HAS NOT RESULTED IN A CRASH.

THIS VEHICLE EXHIBITS THE SAME PROBLEM AS DESCRIBED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN # 15V813000, RECALL# 14S17- S1. I CONTACTED FORD WHO STATED THAT THIS VEHICLE IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE RECALL, EVEN THOUGH IT WAS MANUFACTURER DURING THE DATES COVERED BY THE RECALL. THIS VEHICLE HAS HESITATED AND ALMOST STALLED WHILE ENTERING HIGH SPEED TRAFFIC ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS AND WITH INCREASING FREQUENCY, NEARLY CAUSING AN ACCIDENT. I WOULD LIKE THIS VEHICLE ADDED TO THE LIST OF VEHICLES BEING RECALLED FOR REPAIRS BEFORE BODILY INJURY OR DEATH OCCURS BECAUSE OF THIS DEFECT

DRIVING IN RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC ON INTERSTATE 96 NEAR MILFORD MILE MARKER 175, PASSING IN THE LEFT LANE ABOUT 75 MPH THE ENGINE DIED AND THE ENGINE FAULT LIGHT CAME ON, SO I PULLED OVER TO THE LEFT SIDE SHOULDER, COULD NOT RESTART, HAD TOW TRUCK TAKE TO NEAREST FORD DEALERSHIP TO TROUBLESHOOT, 3 DAYS LATER WAS INFORMED THAT THE ENGINE WIRING HARNESS HAD RUBBED THRU ON SOMETHING AND SHORTED OUT. THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR WAS BAD, TOTAL REPAIRS 700.00 FOR WIRING REPAIRS AND PARTS. THIS CAR HAS BEEN DEALER MAINTAINED SINCE NEW HAVE ALL RECEIPTS, NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH, THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILED. IN ADDITION, THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE HEADLIGHTS BECAME INOPERABLE AND FLICKERED ON AND OFF. THE CONTACT ALSO MENTIONED THAT AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED OFF, THE RADIO AND RUNNING LIGHTS REMAINED ON FOR ANOTHER FIFTEEN MINUTES. THE VEHICLE EVENTUALLY TURNED COMPLETELY OFF. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

LOST POWER AFTER STOPPING AT A STOP SIGN. COULD NOT START THE CAR AGAIN AFTER SHUTTING IT OFF. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS AND SOME WAITING, IT RESTARTED, GOT AROUND THE CORNER AND DIED AGAIN. AFTER HAVING IT TOWED TO FORD AND BEING TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH IT, DROVE 2 HOURS AWAY AND ON THE RETURN TRIP THE NEXT DAY, LOST POWER ON AN ON RAMP. AGAIN, COULD NOT START THE CAR AFTER SHUTTING IT OFF. EVENTUALLY GOT STARTED AND BARELY MADE MY WAY TO THE NEXT (MOSTLY UNUSED) EXIT.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING 10 MPH, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT SHIFT INTO A HIGHER GEAR AND MADE AN ABNORMAL SOUND. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO SHIFT, BUT REQUIRED NUMEROUS ATTEMPTS. THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS CONFIRMED THAT THE TRANSMISSION MALFUNCTIONED AND THE VEHICLE NEEDED A NEW CLUTCH. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED.THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 30,000. THE VIN WAS NOT PROVIDED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING 20 MPH, THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY. IN ADDITION, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER AND WOULD NOT ACCELERATE WITHOUT RESTARTING THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 78,000.

THE DASH UNIT WILL CEASE TO WORK AND ALL SPEAKERS IN THE CAR WILL UNEXPECTEDLY EMIT AN EARSPLITTING, HIGH FREQUENCY SQUEAL. THIS SOUND IS INTERMITTENT WITH A LOUD CRACKLING AND POPPING WHICH CANNOT BE STOPPED. THIS OCCURS WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE, WHEN THE VEHICLE DOOR IS OPENED AND THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, WHILE THE VEHICLE SITS WITHOUT ANY OPERATION OR IGNITION, OR AT ANY OTHER TIME. THE PIERCING SOUND HAS ONLY STOPPED BY REMOVAL OF FUSES IN THE PASSENGER SIDE FUSE BOX. THE ENTIRE DASH UNIT WILL NOT FUNCTION AND THUS DOES NOT ALLEVIATE THE NOISE. THIS SOUND HAS BEEN PRODUCED BY THE VEHICLE WHEN NOT IN MOTION, ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, AND CAR HAS BEEN IMMOBILE FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME. THE ABRUPT, DEAFENING SOUND IS A SAFETY ISSUE WHICH CAN CAUSE AN ACCIDENT DUE TO THE DRIVERS REACTION.

I BOUGHT MY VEHICLE IN 2013, NEW FROM THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP. AFTER OWNING THE VEHICLE FOR A FEW DAYS WE NOTICED THE SHUDDERING ON ACCELERATION. IMMEDIATELY CALLED THE DEALERSHIP AND WAS TOLD THIS WAS BREAK IN TIME. A FEW MONTHS INTO OWNING THE VEHICLE, THE TRANSMISSION FAILED, WE BROUGHT IT INTO THE LOCAL FORD DEALERSHIP AGAIN, AND HAD THE TRANSMISSION FLUSHED AND WORK DONE TO IT. SINCE THEN THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN TO THE SHOP FOUR TIMES FOR THE SAME ISSUE OF THE TRANSMISSION AND THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FLASHING AND SHUTTING DOWN. THE VEHICLE WILL SHUDDER UPON ACCELERATION. NOW NO LIGHTS, BRAKE LIGHTS, DASH LIGHTS, WILL COME ON. THE VEHICLE WILL RUN, BUT YOU HAVE NO IDEA HOW FAST YOU ARE GOING, YOU HAVE NO TURN SIGNALS, THE 2013 FORD FOCUS IS A TIME BOMB. FORD WILL OFFER US NO SOLUTION EXCEPT TO BRING IT IN AND LOOK AT IT. AFTER BRINGING IT IN FOUR TIMES I DO NOT FEEL COMFORTABLE BRINGING IT BACK AND HAVING IT NOT COMPLETELY REPAIRED AND HAVING TO PUT MORE MONEY INTO THIS VEHICLE WHEN IT IS NOT GOING TO BE PROPERLY FIXED. I AM NOT SURE HOW FAILING TRANSMISSIONS, AND ELECTRICAL ISSUES ARE NOT CONSIDERED SAFETY ISSUES AND PUT ON IMMEDIATE RECALL BUT I MUST ASSUME IT IS BECAUSE I AM NOT A MECHANIC, BUT STUCK WITH A LEMON THAT FORD REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE THERE ARE ISSUES WITH.

FORD FOCUS S 2013 HORN WAS NOT WORKING STARTING IN APRIL 2015. CAR WAS PURCHASE NEW IN JULY 2013. IN MID APRIL HORN WAS WORKING AGAIN, BUT ONLY FOR ABOUT 3 DAYS. HORN WAS INOPERATIVE ENTIRE MONTH OF APRIL AND BEGAN WORKING AGAIN IN MID-MAY. ABOUT 3 WEEKS LATER, STARTING IN JUNE, HORN WAS AGAIN INOPERATIVE. CHECKED RELAY AND FUSE AND BOTH WORKED - RELAY "CLICKED" USING HORN BUTTON ON STEERING WHEEL AND WHEN KEY FOB LOCKED DOORS. DETERMINED HORN WAS FAULTY AND RELAY/FUSE NOT THE PROBLEM - CALLED DEALER FOR APPOINTMENT. DEALER CONFIRMED HORN WAS INOPERATIVE AND HAD TO ORDER A HORN WHICH REQUIRED THAT I COME BACK A SECOND TIME TO HAVE IT REPLACED. DEALER & SERVICE PERSONNEL WERE VERY COOPERATIVE AND I TOLD THEM THIS PROBLEM IS COMMON FOR FOCUS AND READ MANY POSTS ON THE INTERNET CONFIRMING THIS ISSUE.

DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY THE CAR IS NON STOP BUGGING DOWN LIKE SOMEONE GRABS THE CAR AND PULLS IT BACK. THEN WHEN I TRY TO TAKE OFF THE CAR DROPS TO ALMOST ZERO RPMS AND DIES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD FOR 3MINS AND THEN START BUT ACTS LIKE IT HAS ZERO POWER AND JUMPS BACK AND FORTH TRYING TO GO. VERY DANGEROUS I THINK! *TR

MY 2013 FOCUS STARTED EXPERIENCING A LOUD POP, CAUSING ME TO JUMP AND SWERVE, THRU THE SPEAKERS AND THE RADIO WOULD STOP WORKING. IT WOULD HAPPEN ONCE IN A WHILE. I COULD RESET THE RADIO BY RESTARTING THE CAR. IT STARTED HAPPENING MORE AND MORE OFTEN. IT PROGRESSED TO INCLUDE A VERY LOUD CRACKLING/POPPING NOISE. NOW (2/09/15) I HAD TO PULL THE FUSE (#79) IN ORDER TO STOP THE NOISE, EVEN WHEN THE RADIO AND CAR WERE OFF. I'M WITHOUT A RADIO NOW AND LOOKING A LARGE BILL. ALL OF THIS STARTED HAPPENING AFTER THE 3/36. STARTED AT 46K MILES OR SO. SEEMS LIKE OTHERS ARE HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS. *TR

MY VEHICLE SHUDDERS BETWEEN FIRST AND SECOND GEARS WHEN ACCELERATING FROM STOPPED OR LOW SPEEDS. IT JOLTS RANDOMLY WHEN DRIVING IN LOWER SPEEDS. THERE ARE SOUNDS OF GRINDING AND RATTLING WHEN COMING OUT OF TURNS/ACCELERATING OUT OF A TURN. *TR

CAR WENT FROM 60 MPH TO 40MPH TO 20MPH TO ZERO AND STALLED AND DIED IN LESS THAN TEN SECONDS WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE NORTH OF ATLANTA,GA ON NOV 23, 2014. CAR CAME TO COMPLETE HALT WHEN I TRIED TO PUSH THE GAS PEDAL AND ACCELERATE. I ALMOST DIED. CAR HAS BEEN IN THE REPAIR SHOP AT FORD DEALERSHIP FOR OVER 23 DAYS NOW. *TR

THE ELECTRONIC DOOR LOCK ENGAGES WHEN THE CAR IS IN GEAR AND MOVES FORWARD OR REVERSE. WHEN THE CAR IS DRIVING, AT ANY SPEED, INCLUDING MAXIMUM HIGHWAY SPEEDS, THE DOORS CAN BE OPENED BY PULLING IN THE INTERIOR DOOR HANDLES. ALL DOORS CAN BE OPENED THIS WAY. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS. ESPECIALLY FOR CHILDREN IN THE CAR. *TR

I BOUGHT MY 2013 FOCUS SE PRE OWNED WITH 19500 MILES IN MARCH OF 2014. WITHIN A MONTH THE CAR WAS SHAKING HORRIBLY AT STOP AND AT SPEEDS BETWEEN 0-30MPH, WHILE GRINDING-LIKE NOISE CAME FROM THE TRANSMISSION. I AM IN FEAR OF MY WIFE AND MY SAFETY, I ALMOST GOT REAR ENDED BY A BIG 1 TON DIESEL TRUCK BECAUSE MY CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE FROM STOP. I TOOK IT THE DEALER AND THE CAR WAS "REPAIRED" BY THE FORD DEALERSHIP WHERE I BOUGHT IT FROM. AFTER TAKING IT HOME 2 WEEKS LATER I BROUGHT THE CAR BACK BECAUSE THE SAME PROBLEMS WERE OCCURRING. FORD SERVICE ASSURED ME THERE WAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG WITH MY CAR. ME BEING A CHEMICAL PLANT WORKER WORKING OVERNIGHTS MADE IT DIFFICULT TO BRING THE CAR IN FOR A THIRD TIME DURING THEIR BUSINESS HOURS. FIRST CHANCE I GOT I BROUGHT THE CAR BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP A MONTH LATER TO GET IT FIXED AGAIN. I TALKED TO THE DEALER MANAGER AND HE GUARANTEED ME HE WOULD HELP ME WITH THIS ISSUE, HE TOOK ME TO THE FORD SERVICE MANAGER JUST FOR HIM TO TELL ME "ITS NORMAL" FOR THAT CAR TO DO THAT. THEY SAID ALL THEY COULD DO IS SOME COMPUTER RESET TO THE CAR AND GAVE IT BACK TO ME. THE SERVICE MANAGER TOLD ME THE CAR WILL START SHAKING AGAIN EVENTUALLY AND THERE'S NOTHING THEY CAN DO TO FIX THAT PROBLEM BECAUSE THAT'S THE WAY THE TRANSMISSION WAS DESIGNED. I AM IN THE PROCESS OF FILING A LEMON LAW COMPLAINT AGAINST FORD. WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER FORD VEHICLE AGAIN. *TR

AS I WAS DRIVING THE CAR, AT LOW RPM'S THE CAR WOULD STUTTER AND STALL. IT IS MORE PRONOUNCED WITH THE AIR CONDITIONING ON. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG WITH IT, I WAS TOLD THIS IS COMMON. ON MY WAY HOME FROM THE DEALER THE CAR STALLED LEAVING A GREEN TRAFFIC LIGHT AND I WAS ALMOST HIT IN THE REAR END. THE CAR FINALLY LITE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT 3 WEEKS LATER. DEALER CHANGED AN O2 SENSOR AND 4 DAYS LATER IN JULY CAR WENT INTO "LIMP MODE" IN FIRST GEAR AS I WAS LEAVING A RESTAURANT. THE CAR HESITATED AND STALLED IN TRAFFIC, I WAS ALMOST HIT IN THE REAR OF THE CAR AGAIN. THE DEALER CLAIMS THAT THE AN ACTUATOR CONTROLLING THE RADIATOR VENTS IS BAD, BUT THIS SHOULD NO HAVE CAUSED THE CAR TO GO INTO LIMP MODE. FORD HAS A TSB FOR A WIRING HARNESS PROBLEM, THE NUMBER IS TSB 13-9-7 THAT EXPLAINS THE ISSUES OF STUTTERING AND STALLING, BUT UNLESS 2 CODES ARE READ ON THE COMPUTER THEY REFUSE TO FIX IT. THE PROBLEM IS WELL DOCUMENTED ON FORDFOCUSST.ORG WEBSITE. HUNDREDS, IF NOT THOUSANDS OF CARS HAVE THE SAME ISSUE. I BELIEVE THAT ONE DAY SOMEONE, IF NOT MANY PEOPLE, WILL BE SERIOUSLY HURT DUE TO THIS ISSUE. *TR

AS I WAS WAITING A TRAFFIC LIGHT MY ENGINE REVS DROPPED SO LOW THE ENGINE QUIETLY DIED. WHEN I WENT TO ACCELERATE FROM THE LIGHT I REALIZED THE CAR HAD STALLED AND HAD TO RESTART THE CAR. IT ONLY HAPPENED ONCE MORE IN THE NEXT MONTH AND A HALF, THEN HAPPENED THREE TIMES YESTERDAY. THE LAST TIME THE CAR STALLED I WAS GETTING READY TO MAKE A LEFT TURN THROUGH A TRAFFIC LIGHT DURING THE RUSH HOUR COMMUTE HOME. THE CAR DID START UP AGAIN, BUT IT STRUGGLED TO TURN BACK ON AND SOME DASH LIGHTS FLASHED UP ME (I BELIEVE THE CEL FLASHED ON.) I WAS STUCK IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION DURING RUSH HOUR FOR APPROXIMATELY 5 SECONDS WITH A DEAD CAR. *TR

THERE IS A KNOWN ISSUE ON THE 2013-2014 FORD FOCUS ST WHERE THE CAR WILL IDLE ROUGH AND SOMETIMES STALL FOR NO APPARENT REASON. THIS IS INCREDIBLY DANGEROUS AND HAS HAPPENED TO ME 2X ALREADY, BOTH DURING LEFT TURNS. I WAS ABLE TO REMEDY THE SITUATION OTHERWISE I WOULD HAVE BEEN INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT BOTH TIMES. I DO NOT KNOW IF THERE IS A FIX YET, BUT THERE IS A TSB ANNOUNCED. I AM TRYING TO GET IT DONE NOW BUT THIS IS A MAJOR PROBLEM SIMILAR TO THE CURRENT GM RECALL. PEOPLE CAN DIE FROM THIS MALFUNCTION IF ON THE HIGHWAY OR WHILE TURNING THROUGH AN INTERSECTION. *TR

I PURCHASED MY VEHICLE IN SEPT 2013 BRAND NEW WITH 23 MILES ON IT. I HAVE NO MEDICATION DONE TO MY CAR, AND FOR THE PAST FEW MONTHS I'VE NOTICED A SMALL MISS EVERY ONCE AND A WHILE. THIS PROBLEM STARTED GETTING WORSE AT TIMES MY CAR WOULD ACCELERATE WITHOUT ME PUSHING THE THROTTLE. ON 21 JUNE 2014 THE PROBLEM GOT MUCH WORSE AND STARTED TO STALL WHEN I AM IN NEUTRAL, AND THE THROTTLE IS ALL OVER THE PLACE. THE CAR IS CURRENTLY AT THE FORD DEALERSHIP, THIS PROBLEM IS ALL OVER THE INTERNET, WITH QUITE OF FEW 2013 FORD FOCUSES EFFECTED THIS IS A PROBLEM THAT NEED TO BE RAISED. IT IS A MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN THAT IF LEFT UNTREATED COULD RESULT IN SOMEONE LOSING THEIR LIFE. *TR

UPON STARTUP, THE CAR IDLES ROUGH AND THE RPMS DROP UNTIL THE ECU CATCHES IT AND THE RPMS INCREASE. THE PROBLEM BECOMES MORE FREQUENT AS THE CAR IS DRIVEN. AT TIMES, THE RPMS WILL DROP SO FAR THAT THE CAR WILL STALL. THE PROBLEM TENDS TO GET WORSE AS THE CAR HEATS UP. IT HAS STALLED MULTIPLE TIMES WHEN COME TO A STOP AT AN INTERSECTION OR TO PARK. FOR EXAMPLE, I WENT OUT TO START THE CAR AFTER ABOUT 20 MINUTES OF IT SITTING AFTER 40 MINUTES OF MIXED COMMUTING AND THE CAR COULD NOT KEEP AN IDLE. IT STALLED ON ME 3 TIMES AND FELT LIKE IT WAS GOING TO SHAKE ITSELF TO PIECES. I FINALLY GOT IT STARTED BY HOLDING DOWN THE THROTTLE AND I WAS ABLE TO MOVE THE CAR. IT WAS 60-63 DEGREES OUT ON APRIL 3RD, 2014 IN SOUTHEASTERN CT WHEN THIS PROBLEM OCCURRED. THE PROBLEM ALSO SEEMS TO GET WORSE AS THE AIR TEMPERATURE INCREASES. *TR

WHEN YOU DRIVE THE CAR FROM 5 - 20 MINUTES AND WHEN YOU REMOVE THE SEATBELT - THERE IS NO ALARMING SOUND AND NO LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD. BUT, WHEN YOU TURN OFF THE ENGINE AND START AGAIN, YOU CAN HEAR THE ALARM AND THE LIGHT WILL APPEAR ON THE DASHBOARD WHEN YOU REMOVE THE SEATBELT. CONCERNS: IF THE DRIVER STOP (FOR DRIVING LET SAY 5 - 3 MINUTES) FOR EXAMPLE AND HE REMOVE THE SEATBELT FOR WHATEVER REASON, HE MIGHT FORGOT TO FASTEN THE SEATBELT AS THE CAR WILL NOT ALARM AND NO LIGHT WILL ILLUMINATE ON THE DASHBOARD. NOTE: THE LOCAL DEALER TESTED THE SAME CAR MODEL/YEAR AND HAVING THE SAME RESULT - NO ALARM AND LIGHTS ON THE DASHBOARD WHEN UNBUCKLED AFTER DRIVING 5-20 MINS. *TR

WHILE TRAVELING ON THE FREEWAY THE CAR JUST DIED. ENGINE SHUT OFF, HOW EVER ALL THE ELECTRICAL IN THE CAR WERE STILL WORKING. ONCE PULLING OFF THE FREE WAY, THE CAR STARTED AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS BUT THEN DIED SHORTLY AFTER. THE CAR THEN WOULD NOT WORK. AFTER GETTING THE CAR TOWED TO QUIRK FORD IN QUINCY THEY HAD TO KEEP IT AS A CODE THEY DO NOT KNOW WHAT IT MEANS CAME UP, SO THEY DO NOT KNOW HOW TO FIX THE CAR. THE CAR IS STILL IN THE SHOP TO THIS DAY AND THEY WONT GIVE ME A RENTAL. *TR

CAR: FORD FOCUS EV (ALL ELECTRIC) - SECOND REPORT ON NHTSA WEBSITE ON THIS SPECIFIC VEHICLE FAILURE: INCIDENT: WHILE BACKING OUT OF PACKING SPACE IN COSTCO PARKING, I STARTED TO SHIFT FROM REVERSE INTO DRIVE. ALL OF SUDDEN, THE CAR SHUT DOWN AND HAD COMPLETE LOSS OF POWER. I COULD NOT MOVE THE AUTO TRANSMISSION SHIFTER OUT OF THE (N) NEUTRAL POSITION. THE WEIRD THING WAS THAT AS YOU LOOKED AT THE DASH BOARD PANEL, IT SAID THE CAR WAS IN (P) BUT THE SHIFTER WAS PHYSICALLY IN NEUTRAL AND THE CAR ACTED AS IF IN PARK (WHEELS IN GEAR - CAN'T PUSH IT). THE CAR HAD NO POWER AND I WAS STRANDED IN THE PARKING LOT LANE BETWEEN PARKING STALLS. I CALLED MY HUSBAND AND FRITZ FORD IN RIVERSIDE, CA (WHERE I RECENTLY BOUGHT THE VEHICLE). FRITZ CALLED A TOW TRUCK TO GET THE CAR AND MY HUSBAND CAME TO PICK ME UP. BEING THAT THE FOCUS EV IS NEW, THE TOW TRUCK DRIVER WAS A LITTLE CONFUSED ON HOW TO GET IT ON THE TRUCK AS THE CAR WOULD NOT MOVE AND THE TRANSMISSION WAS LOCKED IN NEUTRAL. FRITZ STILL HAS THE CAR AFTER 5 DAYS CLAIMING THERE IS NO ISSUE WITH IT. HMM? *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE IN REVERSE, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED AND MOVED FORWARD. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE NAVIGATIONAL SYSTEM COULD NOT BE ACTIVATED WITH THE NAVIGATIONAL BUTTON AND THE SPEEDOMETER PROVIDED TWO DIFFERENT SPEED READINGS. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER FOR FURTHER INSPECTION. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 5,633.

WHILE DRIVING THE CAR AT ANY POINT IN TIME THE CAR STARTS TO SOUND LIKE ITS GOING TO DIE ALMOST LIKE I'M DRIVING A STANDARD BUT I'M NOT. I MOSTLY NOTICE IT WHEN DRIVING IN TOWN. YET I HAVE NOTICED IT WHEN GOING FASTER AS WELL. I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE BRAND NEW. I WAS NEVER INFORMED OF THIS BEING "NORMAL". I HAVE TAKEN THE VEHICLE IN. THE PERSON WORKING ON MY VEHICLE SAID THEY DROVE IT AND NOTICED THE ISSUE. STATED THAT RESETTING THE COMPUTER SYSTEM WOULD RESOLVE THIS PROBLEM. YET AFTER HAVING THIS REDONE. NOT EVEN AN HOUR LATER I NOTICE THE ISSUE HAS NOT BE RESOLVED AND IS STILL HAPPENING. I AM AFRAID THAT I WILL GET INTO A WRECK, NOT TO MENTION I HAVE WASTED MY MONEY ON THIS VEHICLE. I FEEL AS IF I AM THROWING MY MONEY AWAY COMPLETELY. WHEN TALKING TO MY SALES MAN AFTER HAVING THIS ISSUE NOT RESOLVED. HE TELLS ME THAT THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT EVERYONE COMPLAINS ABOUT THOUGH FORD STATES THIS IS NORMAL. I HAVE HAD MANY VEHICLES IN MY LIFE AND THIS IS BY FAR NOT NORMAL. IF THIS VEHICLE DID THIS WHILE I WAS TEST DRIVING THE CAR. I WOULD NOT HAVE PURCHASED THIS CAR EVER. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ABOUT THIS ISSUE. DO WE NEED TO WAIT UNTIL SOMEONE IS SERIOUSLY INJURED FROM THE DEFECT BEFORE SOMETHING WILL BE DONE. FORD... FIX THIS!! *TR

VEHICLE STOPS MIDDLE OF NO WHERE ABRUPTLY. *TR

CAR IS EQUIPPED WITH VOICE COMMAND. WHEN I USE VOICE TO TURN ON HEAT OR AC, I WILL SAY FOR EXAMPLE, CLIMATE 68. THE CAR WILL RESPOND, SETTING CLIMATE 68. THEN IT DOES NOT TURN ON. IF I TOUCH THE CLIMATE TOUCH SCREEN IT THEN COMES ON AT 68, EVEN IF IT WAS PREVIOUSLY SET AT 75. BEEN TO THE DEALER REPEATEDLY FOR TWO SOFTWARE UPDATES, ONCE PULLING OUT THE CONTROL BOX PER FORDS REQUEST TO CHECK THE PART NUMBER AND ONCE TO HAVE THE 8 PIN CONTROL MODULE REPLACED. NOW WAITING FOR FORD ENGINEERING TO COME UP WITH A FIX. *JS

CAR:2013 FORD FOCUS EV. NOTICED "STOP SAFELY NOW" LIGHT ON AT STOP LIGHT JUST AFTER EXITING FREEWAY OFF WINCHESTER RD IN TEMECULA, CA. WAS ABLE TO ACCELERATE TO GET ONTO WINCHETER ROAD TRAVELING WEST GOING DOWN HILL AND NERVOUSLY COASTED DOWN HILL NOTICING THE STEERING BECOMING DIFFICULT. THANKFULLY THE LEFT TURN LIGHT WAS GREEN SO I WAS ABLE TO COAST THRU THE INTERSECTION AND GET ON JEFFERSON ROAD. I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE, HOWEVER, THE CAR WAS UNRESPONSIVE. I IMMEDIATELY PULLED INTO THE FIRST AVAILABLE PARKING LOT OFF OF JEFFERSON ROAD - POLLO LOCO PARKING LOT AND TURNED VEHICLE OFF. CALL HUSBAND TO COME GET ME. HE TURNED VEHICLE ON WITHOUT INCIDENT AND DROVE IT HOME WITH OUT ISSUE. WORKING WITH DEALER FOR NEXT STEPS. CALL FRITTS FORD AS I TALKED TO DANIEL IN SERVICE AND HE REPORTED THAT ANOTHER FOCUS EV OWNER JUST REPORTED TEH SAME ISSUE AND WAS ON THE WAY TO THE DEALERSHIP ON SATURDAY, 21.SEPT. THIS PROBLEM IS PERHAPS MUCH BIGGER THAN WE THINK?! FYI: DEALERSHIP = FRITTS FORD, RIVERSIDE, CA CAR PURCHASED ON SUNDAY, 15.SEPT.2013. OWED THE CAR FOR 6 DAYS.

CAR STALLED WITH SOME WARNING MESSAGES FOR NO REASON. AFTER COMPLETE TURN-OFF RESTARTED NORMALLY. HAPPENED IN TRAFFIC AND COULD RESULT WITH ACCIDENT. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE AT A STOP, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND THE STOP SAFELY WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO RESTART. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER WHERE THE FAILURE WAS UNABLE TO BE REPLICATED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 1,900.

MY DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING OUR NEW 2013 FORD FOCUS ELECTRIC HOME FROM SCHOOL AT APPROXIMATELY 35MPH WHEN THE "STOP SAFELY NOW" MESSAGE APPEARED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. SHE STARTED TO PULL OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD BUT BEFORE SHE COULD GET SAFELY TO THE CURB, THE CAR SHUT DOWN. SHE WAS UNABLE TO GET THE CAR STARTED AND WE HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED TO A FORD DEALER. AFTER READING ABOUT THIS 'STOP SAFELY NOW" WARNING ONLINE IT SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM. I UNDERSTAND THAT CARS BREAK DOWN BUT COMPLETELY DISABLING THE CAR IN THIS WAY COULD LEAD TO A SERIOUS CRASH. *TT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE CONTACT STATED HE WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE AFTER WAITING APPROXIMATELY THIRTY MINUTES. THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSIS. THE TECHNICIAN WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS AWAITING INSPECTION FROM A FORD ENGINEER. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 889. *TR

WHEN YOU TURN ON THE HEADLIGHTS OR IF YOU TURN ON THE FRONT WINDSHIELD WIPERS, THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER GAUGES, GET "VERY DIM". WHEN THE HEAD LIGHTS ARE TURNED TO OFF, ALL OF THE GAGE LIGHTS GET BRIGHTER. THIS MAKES IT VERY DIFFICULT TO DRIVE AND SEE THE SPEEDOMETER DURING THE DAYTIME. I WOULD LIKE TO DRIVE WITH MY RUNNING LIGHTS "ON" DURING OUR TRAVELS IN THE DAYTIME. BUT THE GAUGES GET TO DIM TO READ IN THE DAYLIGHT, SO WE TRAVEL WITH OUR RUNNING LIGHTS IN THE "OFF" POSITION. OUR LOCAL FORD DEALER SAYS THAT IS THE WAY THEY ARE DESIGNED AT THE PRESENT TIME. THE LOCAL DEALER DOES NOT HAVE A "FIX".... THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ME AND MY WIFE. *TR

WHILE DRIVING AN ALERT COMES ON STATING "STOP SAFELY NOW", THEN THE VEHICLE STARTS TO LOSE POWER, GIVING THE DRIVER LITTLE TIME TO PULL OVER. IF YOU ARE IN THE FAR LEFT LANE, IT COULD BE A REALLY DANGEROUS SITUATION. I'VE TAKEN IT TO THE SHOP ONCE BEFORE. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME IT HAPPENED AND IT IS BECOMING AN ISSUE OF CONCERN. FROM THE INTERNET SEARCHES ON FORD FOCUS ELECTRIC STOP SAFELY NOW IT APPEARS TO BE A PRETTY LARGE ISSUE. *TR

MY 2013 FORD FOCUS HATCHBACK, IN THE DAYTIME YOU CAN NOT READ THE SPEEDOMETER GAGE IN THE CLUSTER PANEL. THE GAGE LIGHTING NEEDS TO BE BRIGHTER. THE SPEEDOMETER GAGE IS SET BACK IN THE DASH AND THE DIM LIGHTING MAKE IT VERY HARD TO SEE HOW FAST YOU ARE TRAVELING. WE LIVE IN SUNNY FLORIDA AND THE BRIGHT SUN DURING THE DAY MAKES IT VERY DIFFICULT TO TELL YOUR MPH. THE INSTRUMENT DIMMER SWITCH IS ADJUSTED TO THE HIGHEST SETTING. ON A CLOUDY DAY OR AT NIGHT IT IS NOT A PROBLEM TO SEE & READ. I DROVE 2 OTHER 2013 FORD FOCUS HB AND THEY ALL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. THE FORD DEALER SAID THERE IS NO KNOWN FIX. THIS IS A SERIOUS HAZARD, IF ONE CAN NOT CLEARLY READ THE SPEEDOMETER GAGE. I SURE HOPE AT SOME POINT IN TIME, THIS CAN BE CORRECTED. THANK YOU. *TR

I BOUGHT A 2013 FORD FOCUS HATCHBACK ON MARCH 22, 2013, LESS THAN TWO WEEKS. ALL SUDDEN MY CAR DIED WOULDN'T START. I CALLED FORD ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE, THE GUY CAME AND JUMP START MY CAR 5-6 TIMES IN ORDER TO GET CAR STARTED, BUT THE HOOD/ AND DASHBOARD HAD BURNING SMELLS AND IT WENT DARK COMPLETELY, NO LIGHTS DISPLAY ON DASH, THE SIGNAL LIGHT DIDN'T EVEN WORK TOO. I CHECKED ONLINE, MANY PEOPLE COMPLAINT FORD FOCUS HAS ELECTRICAL WIRING PROBLEM SINCE YEAR 2000, AND IT IS CONTINUED USING ON YEAR 2013 MODEL, THE WIRE CRACKING IN INSULATION. FORD SHOULD RECALL CARS TO FIX THEIR DESIGN PROBLEMS, BUT I BELIEVE GOVERNMENT NEEDS TO STEP IN BEFORE THE BIG 3 MOTOR MANUFACTURERS WOULD TAKE CONSUMERS SERIOUSLY. *TR

THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER GAUGES ARE HARD TO READ ON A SUNNY DAY. THE VISION OF THE SPEEDOMETER, WHILE DRIVING ON A SUNNY DAY IS VERY HARD TO READ. IT IS A DISTRACTION TO STARE AT THE SPEEDOMETER, TO SEE THE SPEED OF THE VEHICLE. THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER LIGHTS ARE SET AT THE BRIGHTEST SETTING. THE GLARE FROM THE POLISHED ALUMINUM ON THE STEERING WHEEL IS ALSO A DISTRACTION WHILE DRIVING ON A SUNNY DAY. THE CLUSTER GAUGE BACK LIGHTS NEED TO BE BRIGHTER. MY LOCAL FORD DEALER WAS NOT A HELP... *TR