2011 Toyota Highlander Electrical Problems

TURNING ON THE REAR DEFROSTER WILL CUT POWER TO THE ENGINE AND DASHBOARD. TURNING OFF THE DEFROSTER WILL RETURN POWER TO THE DASH. THIS HAPPENS REGARDLESS OF IF THE VEHICLE IS STILL OR IN MOTION.

SINCE LAST YEAR, WHILE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION THE REAR HATCH SENSOR BEGAN GOING ON. LIGHT AND SENSOR GO ON WHEN THE TEMPERATURE OUTSIDE IS HIGH AND WHEN THE CAR IS TURNING. THIS IS ONLY FOR THE REAR HATCH. I HAVE RESEARCHED ONLINE AND SEE THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL OF VEHICLE. THE ISSUE IS THE SENSOR CONNECTED TO THE HATCH LOCK. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE WHILE DRIVING.

REAR DOOR SENSOR IS DEFECTIVE. LIGHT EITHER STAYS ON AND GETS EXTREMELY HOT WHICH DRAINS THE BATTERY OR LIGHT AND BACK DOOR AJAR INDICATOR FLASHES AND SOUNDS SIGNAL BEEP ON AND OFF CONSTANTLY AS YOU DRIVE. I READ ONLINE THAT MANY OTHERS HAVE THIS PROBLEM. ONE SOLUTION IS TO CUT WIRE, BUT THAT IS UNSAFE AS YOU COULD BE DRIVING WITH AN OPEN DOOR AND NOT KNOW IT.

THE ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS HAVE FAILED AGAIN FOR THE THIRD TIME. I HAVE HAD ALL 4 DOOR LOCKS REPLACED, SOME TWICE, AT CONSIDERABLE EXPENSE. THE DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK AND THE DRIVER'S-SIDE REAR DOOR LOCK ARE NOW BROKEN AGAIN. THE DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK DOES NOT OPERATE ELECTRICALLY AT ALL AGAIN. THIS MEANS I MUST PULL THE MECHANICAL KEY OUT OF THE KEY FOB TO UNLOCK THE DOOR. WHEN THE CAR IS PLACED IN DRIVE, THE DRIVER'S DOOR REMAINS UNLOCKED, AS DOES THE DRIVER'S-SIDE REAR DOOR - A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE SINCE THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO LOCK AUTOMATICALLY, AND THEY WILL NOT LOCK MANUALLY WITH THE ELECTRIC DOOR LOCK SWITCH LOCATED ON THE DRIVER'S DOOR - I HAVE TO MANUALLY PUSH THE DOOR LOCK LEVER MECHANICALLY. I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED IN TOYOTA. THE PROBLEM LIES WITH THE CHEAP SOLENOIDS/MOTORS THAT ARE USED TO ACTUATE THE DOOR LOCKS - A DEVICE THAT COSTS LESS THAN $5 ON AMAZON, BUT IS DIFFICULT TO INSTALL FOR US NON-MECHANICS. I HAVE HEARD OF THE SAME PROBLEM HAPPENING WITH OTHER CAR MANUFACTURERS AS WELL.

ALARM SYSTEM GOES OFF RANDOMLY HOOD LATCH SWITCH TO BE THE PROBLEM.. TOYOTA IS CHARGING 300 PLUS $ FOR MANUFACTURING DEFECT - CHECK TECHINICAL BULLETEN ( T-SB-0200-10 )I FEEL ITS NOT FAIR I HAVE

WHEN TURN LEFT THE WARNING SISTEM FOR OPEN DOORS IS ON ANDTURN ON INTERIOR LIGHS AND SOUNDWARNING FOR SECONDSAND GO OFF. AFRAID THE DOORS IS GO BE OPEN

ACTUATORS FAIL TO RESPOND IN CAR DRIVERSIDE DOOR.IN PARK KEY FOB READ DOORS AS UNLOCKED AND CAUSES LOCK AND UNLOCK TO RUN AFTER ENGINE IS SHUT DOWN. DIDI DIAGE AT TOTYOTA OF BOWIE 6-21 -18 .CONFORMATION SHOWS NO PROBLEM WITH ACTUATORS ELETRONICS READ FINE.BOUGHT KEY FOB ANNAPOLIS TOYOTA REPROGRAMED CODE 6-22 AND 2ND TRIP 6-25

AS I WAS TIRING RIGHT A SENSOR CAME ON AND THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKED AND ALL THE LIGHTS TURNS OFF. THANK GOD I WAS ALMOST HOME. HAPPENED A FEW TIMES REALLY SCARY.

THE REAR DOOR SENSOR KEEPS INDICATING THE DOOR IS OPEN WHEN IT IS NOT. THIS CAUSES THE INTERIOR LIGHTS TO FLASH, DOOR TO CHIME, AND THE REAR DISPLAY TO SHOW "DOOR OPEN". THIS BEGAN HAPPENING WHEN I WOULD TURN LEFT. WHEN THE WEATHER IS REALLY HOT OUTSIDE (90S AND ABOVE) IT IS WORSE. THIS ISSUE CAUSES A BIGGER PROBLEM, WITH THE VEHICLE THINKING THAT THE REAR DOOR IS NOT CLOSED IT DOES NOT ALLOW ME TO LOCK/ALARM MY VEHICLE WHEN OUT IN PUBLIC. I AM ACTIVE DUTY MILITARY AND CURRENTLY LIVE OVERSEAS, SO KEEPING MY VEHICLE LOCKED/ALARMED IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.

THERE ARE TWO ISSUES WITH MY 2011 HIGHLANDER. I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE 1 YEAR AGO AND AM QUITE UPSET ABOUT THE ISSUES AND THE MONEY THAT I NEED TO PUT INTO IT. I AM ACTUALLY LOOKING INTO TRADING THIS VEHICLE AS, AFTER SPENDING 26K ON IT, I SHOULDN'T BE DEALING WITH OR PAYING FOR THESE ISSUES. TOYOTA HAS BEEN NONEXISTENT IN OFFERING REMEDIES. I HAVE ONLY EVER OWNED TOYOTAS (2 CAMRYS AND 1 HIGHLANDER) AND PROBABLY WILL NEVER OWN ONE AGAIN. THANKS TOYOTA!!! - THE ALARM CONSTANTLY GOES OFF FOR NO APPARENT REASON. I AM UNABLE TO LOCK THE DOORS ON THE VEHICLE OTHERWISE THE ALARM WILL GO OFF EVERY 30 MINUTES TO 1 HOUR. TOYOTA WANTS TO CHARGE $130 JUST TO LOOK AT THE VEHICLE. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE THAT PRESENTS ITSELF IN EVERY TOYOTA FORUM. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON THIS. - THE BOLTS THAT CONNECT THE WINDOW TO THE CONTRAPTION THAT ROLLS UP AND DOWN THE WINDOW ALL HAVE FALLEN OFF. THIS COST ME 150 TO FIX ON JUST ONE WINDOW. THE BOLTS LOOSEN BY THEMSELVES AND FALL OFF. THIS TOO HAS BEEN LISTED ON MANY TOYOTA FORUMS AND SHOULD HAVE A RECALL. *TR

THE REAR HATCH DOOR SENSOR GOES OFF WHEN THE CAR MAKES A TURN OR IS DRIVEN OVER BUMP. THE DEALERSHIP SAID THE DOOR SENSOR SYSTEM MUST BE REPLACED AT AN ESTIMATED COST OF MORE THAN $700. ALSO, DRIVER'S SIDE VISOR DOES NOT STAY UP. COST TO REPLACE, $300. *TR

SENSOR FOR "OPEN DOOR" COMES ON WHEN HITTING A BUMP OR SUDDEN TURNS. MORE PROMINENT WHEN TURNING LEFT EVEN AT LOW SPEEDS. HAVE PROBLEMS WITH LOCKING THE VEHICLE AT TIMES DUE TO THIS. HAVE TAKEN THIS TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY STATED IT HAS TO BE A RUBBER IN THE REAR WINDOW THAT CAUSES THIS ISSUE. WHEN DRIVING AROUND AT ANY SPEED IT RANDOMLY STARTS TO BEEP AND GOES OFF. NOT SAFE WHEN TAKING THE VAN OUT AND ISN'T ABLE TO LOCK OUT IN PUBLIC. *TR

WHILE ACCELERATING ONTO THE ON-RAMP OF THE OF THE HIGHWAY, THE WARNING LIGHT CAME ON,THE REAR DOOR/WINDOW WARNING CAME ON AND THEN THE DOME LIGHTS CAME ON. IT CONTINUED GOING ON AND OFF FOR ABOUT 15-20 MINUTES. VERY CONCERNING WHEN YOU ARE IN HIGHWAY TRAFFIC AND CAN'T GET OFF! PREVIOUS TIMES THAT THIS OCCURRED, THE SEAT BELT WARNING WOULD DING, THE "BACK DOOR OPEN" WARNING WOULD FLASH, THE DOME LIGHTS WOULD TURN ON, AND THEN IT WOULD STOP. YESTERDAY, THAT CYCLE CONTINUED. MY HUSBAND BELIEVES YESTERDAY'S INCIDENT BEGAN DUE TO A BUMP IN THE ROAD. ON PREVIOUS OCCASIONS, THERE WAS NO BUMP. *TR

THE WARNING LIGHTS AND DISPLAY INDICATE THAT THE REAR GLASS DOOR IS OPEN WHEN IT IS NOT. THE WARNING LIGHT AND DISPLAYS GOES ON AND OFF REPEATEDLY. *TR

2011 TOYOTA HIGHLANDER 4WD: SYSTEM CHECK PANEL INDICATING THE REAR GLASS DOOR IS OPEN, WHEN IT'S NOT. CONTINUAL CHIME INDICATING DOOR IS OPEN IN CONJUNCTION WITH TURNING DOME LIGHT OFF AND ON. BAD DOOR SENSOR FAULTY ELECTRICAL DOOR SWITCH. *TR

WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH, I WAS UNABLE TO KEEP THE CAR IN THE LANE ON A SLIGHT CURVE TO THE RIGHT IN THE ROAD. THE STEERING WHEEL WAS TURNING, BUT THE WHEELS WERE NOT RESPONDING. THE STEERING WHEEL WAS MUCH HARDER TO TURN. SUDDENLY THE STEERING WHEEL WAS EXTREMELY EASY TO TURN AND THE CAR VEERED HEAVILY TO THE RIGHT CAUSING ME TO RUN OFF THE ROAD. THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES AT OTHER SPEEDS. *TR THE CONSUMER HAS SINCE TRADED THE VEHICLE. UPDATED 09/13/12 THE CONSUMER STATED ELECTRONIC STEERING SYSTEMS WERE FUNDAMENTALLY FLAWED. THE CONSUMER STATED HE WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER VEHICLE WITH ELECTRIC STEERING. UPDATED 10/22/12

2011 TOYOTA HIGHLANDER 4WD: SYSTEM CHECK PANEL I INDICATING THE REAR DOOR IS OPEN, WHEN IT'S NOT. BEEN TO DEALER 3 TIMES. CAR HAS 10000 MILES ON IT. THE REAR DOOR OPEN INDICATOR EFFECTS DOOR LOCKING ABILITY WITH KEY FOB AS WELL AS CONTINUAL CHIME INDICATING REAR DOOR IS OPEN IN CONJUNCTION WITH TURNING DOME LIGHT OFF AND ON. DEALER THOUGHT IT WAS REAR DOOR STRIKE PLATE. ADJUSTED ACCORDINGLY. THIS WAS NOT THE PROBLEM. 3RD VISIT TO DEALER STILL TRYING TO PINPOINT WHY THIS IS HAPPENING SO FAR NO LUCK. ELECTRICAL BAD DOOR SENSOR FAULTY ELECTRICAL DOOR SWITCH THIS PROBLEM IS VERY ANNOYING AND NOW TIMES CONSUMING 3 VISITS TO THE DEALER AND STILL NO SOLUTION. REAR DOOR OPEN INDICATOR INITIALLY MADE TO STOP BY ROLLING DOWN DRIVER SIDE WINDOW AT HIGHWAY SPEED. INDICATOR ALSO MADE TO GO OFF WHEN ROAD TURNS TO THE LEFT ONLY. IT'S BACK AT THE DEALERSHIP TODAY (9/12/2011). *TR

CAR HAS BEEN IN USE FOR 3 WEEKS. AFTER NOT BEING DRIVEN FOR 4 DAYS, NO ELECTRICAL POWER IS RECEIVED FROM THE BATTERY. JUMP-STARTING THE CAR WAS ATTEMPTED, BUT THE CAR REMAINED IMMOBILIZED. FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE IS 800. *TR