2021 Toyota Corolla Transmission Problems

Your clutch pedal may suddenly lose pressure and stay flat on the floor, leaving you unable to shift gears or control the car. This happened to the owner twice—once while driving and again in a shop parking lot—and was caused by a failed seal inside the transmission's clutch slave cylinder. The seal appears to be too thin from the factory, and repairs cost between $3,900 and $6,600.

Your clutch pedal suddenly lost all pressure and got stuck to the floor while parked, preventing you from shifting gears. The dealership found that the clutch slave cylinder had failed internally at only 38,000 miles. Because your car shares the same fluid reservoir for both clutch and brake systems, this failure could have compromised your brakes if it happened at highway speeds, and fixing it required removing the entire transmission at a cost of $5,600.

Your Corolla's clutch slave cylinder (a small component inside the transmission) may be failing due to being made of resin, which can leak brake fluid onto the clutch and flywheel. You might notice a clutch pedal that feels stuck to the floor, a "low braking power" warning on your dashboard, or contaminated brake fluid in your clutch system. If the slave cylinder fails completely, you could lose braking power, which is a serious safety risk. The fix typically involves replacing the slave cylinder, clutch, and flywheel, along with flushing and refilling the brake fluid.

While driving at 20 mph, your clutch pedal became stuck and wouldn't move, preventing you from shifting gears. After forcing the pedal back to neutral, your vehicle entered limp mode and the pedal sank to the floor. You noticed brake fluid leaking from under the car and the brake fluid reservoir was empty. A mechanic found that the clutch slave cylinder failed, which damaged the clutch and flywheel. Repairing this will likely involve replacing the slave cylinder, clutch, and possibly the flywheel.

Your clutch slave cylinder completely failed at 62,000 miles, causing you to be stranded on the road. The seal inside the cylinder burst, and you had to replace the entire slave cylinder. Even though you had the fluid changed at 30,000 miles, Toyota declined to cover this failure under warranty. Fixing this will require replacing the slave cylinder and potentially inspecting the clutch system.

You notice a gas smell coming from your car whenever you drive it, even though your vehicle has less than 33,000 miles. This could indicate a fuel system leak or other fuel-related issue that needs inspection. A mechanic should check your fuel injectors, fuel lines, and connections to identify and fix the source of the odor.

Your clutch slave cylinder failed and leaked brake fluid onto your clutch and flywheel, leaving you unable to shift gears smoothly—especially when trying to move from 1st to 2nd gear. This made it difficult to accelerate in traffic and created a safety hazard. The repair requires replacing the slave cylinder, clutch, and flywheel, and you may have difficulty finding replacement flywheels.

Your clutch pedal got stuck and wouldn't pop back up after you pushed it in while driving in a parking lot, forcing you to manually lift it with your foot. The dealer found that the slave cylinder (the component that operates the clutch) had failed. This happened at about 58,000 miles on your 2021 Corolla with a manual transmission. Fixing this will likely involve replacing the slave cylinder and bleeding the clutch system.

Your clutch slave cylinder failed at 42,000 miles, causing hydraulic fluid to leak and damage your clutch assembly. This left your clutch unable to function properly. The dealership refused to cover the clutch repair under warranty, even though the damage was caused by the defective slave cylinder. Fixing this issue will likely require replacing the clutch slave cylinder and potentially the entire clutch assembly.

Clutch pedal sticks. Even after Toyota dealership bled lines. Apparent slave cylinder issue. Failure ranges from 35k to 80k miles. Faulty design using polymer is the internet’s general opinion.

I just had to replace my transmission. 2 days later I have my check engine light, secondary collision, pre collision and parking brake malfunction lights came on. There is a osc recall that could cause these issues, but they’re saying stated my specific vehicle isn’t under a recall

The contact owns a 2021 Toyota Corolla. The contact stated that while the vehicle was parked in the driveway with the engine off and attempting to enter the vehicle to clean the interior of the vehicle, the vehicle rolled away going downward out of the driveway. Due to the failure, the vehicle tugged the contact while rolling away. The contact stated that the vehicle independently came to a stop in the middle of the roadway. The contact sustained back, feet, and injuries to both legs, requiring medical attention. A police report was not filed. The Insurance Provider retrieved the vehicle at the scene. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

Vehicle has numerous electrical/mechanical issues that seem to stem from an autonomous learning remote sensor. The problems include, but are not limited to 1. Seatbelt sticking on driver’s side, problem resolves itself, possibly after someone has had a good chuckle on satellite watching the driver struggle to disengage the safely belt, 2. Trunk remotely popped at speeds ranging from 0 (park) to 70mph on highway, 3. Ignition light on and off, usually correctible by disengaging and reengaging battery lead, 4. Car shutoff and burglar alarm engaged while in park, again , correctible by disengaging and engaging battery lead, 5. Car gas gauge reading false on the light side ( less than E), then after disengaging and engaging battery lead, reverts back to 1/4 tank, 6. Clock time changed, presumably after vehicle shutoff and restarted in the middle of the night. Clock reset via auto computer, etc. All incidents are usually corrected by disengaging and engaging the battery lead, after a brief pause to reset the vehicle’s ECU.

I was driving home from school, and while trying to change lanes on fairly busy road on a hill and my car with a CVT transmission stalled out and a check engine light appeared on my dash with a message reading “drive-start control malfunction”. While trying to limp the car home, the engine killed power three or four times within like a five minute drive up some hilly roads and I constantly had to pull to the side and turn the car off and on just to make it up the next hill. I took it in the same day the issue were happening and they didn’t diagnose the issue until two three week after I had originally brought it in and said it was a CVT issue. A week or two prior to this happening, I was coming down a hill towards a stop light and when I get hit the stop light my car jerked and the “drive-start control malfunction” messages appeared then immediately went away, so I paid it no mind.

Car was in dealership twice in one week for jerking while driving dealership said it was abc and was so called “fixed” both times only had my car for a little bit back before I had to take it back . 3rd time in the same week my transmission went out on me while on the highway with young kids in the car and almost caused a wreck. Car got towed in was confirmed it was my transmission and a dozen other codes going off . Toyota is lucky that the semi that was behind me when this happened did not plow into me