2016 Subaru Crosstrek Electrical Problems

Your A/C control head and its connector burned on both ends, creating a fire hazard according to the dealer—without any warning lights or blown fuses. You first noticed the problem when the A/C only worked on settings 1, 2, and 4, then only on 4. The dealer identified this as a design flaw in the original parts and replaced them with corrected wiring that addresses the defect.

Your horn isn't working, and the same electrical issue is affecting your airbag system and rear window defroster. You were unable to use your horn to alert another driver during a merge, which resulted in a fender bender accident. The repair costs are significant, and you believe this may be a widespread defect that should trigger a manufacturer recall.

Your horn isn't working when you press the steering wheel, which prevented you from alerting another driver during a near-miss accident. The horn does sound when you press the lock button three times, suggesting the horn itself may be functional but the steering wheel control isn't working properly. This is a safety issue that needs immediate attention, as a working horn is essential for alerting other drivers.

Your car's battery is draining completely even though you've replaced the battery and pulled the data communication module (DCM) fuse. You've also received a software update for the DCM, but the problem continues. This appears to be a widespread issue affecting many vehicles, and the manufacturer is aware of the cause but the fix is expensive.

Your horn isn't working because of a faulty clockspring in the airbag system. This is a known issue affecting Subaru models since 2009, and you feel it's a serious safety concern since you can't warn other drivers of potential collisions. The problem persists even after visiting a Subaru dealer for repair. Fixing this will likely require replacing the clockspring assembly, which controls both the horn and airbag system.

Your car has stalled three times on the highway when the fuel gauge showed 70 (full), but the Subaru dealer couldn't identify a problem. After waiting about 30 minutes each time, you were able to restart it and drive home. This could indicate an issue with the fuel system, electrical system, or engine that only shows up intermittently.

Your car's battery is draining completely after sitting for several days, leaving you stranded and needing jump starts multiple times. The dealership found excessive electrical drain (350mA) from a faulty data control module (DCM) that's drawing power even when everything is turned off. Fixing this requires replacing the DCM unit, which costs around $1,000, or disconnecting it (which disables navigation, front speakers, and Bluetooth).

Your car is idling roughly when you come to a stop, especially when the air conditioning is running, even though no warning light shows up. The problem comes and goes but has become more frequent. A dealer diagnosed a dirty throttle body as the cause and cleaned it, but the rough idling returned. The dealer then said the alternator and belt tensioner need replacing. The fix will likely involve cleaning or replacing the throttle body, alternator, and serpentine belt tensioner.

Car caught fire from what seemed to be an electrical issue. Car became engulfed in flames within a few seconds. Fire department was called to extinguish the fire. I was lucky myself to make it out in time. The fire became so big, so quickly, I was concerned for the safety of the surrounding property. Luckily, no one was injured and no property damage took place. Car was inspected and totaled by insurance. The headlights were constantly needing to be changed. Otherwise the car was fine. I had just replaced the battery and just a few hours later the fire happened. The fire appeared to start somewhere under the hood on the passenger side.

I have had three occurrences with my vehicle where I discovered a dangerous situation in the manual heater and air conditioner control module connector that resulted in the module connector and the wiring harness connector both becoming scorched and melted due to excessive heat. I believe that this is probably occurring due to high electrical current at the connector. In all occurrences, the first symptoms of the problem are intermittent blower fan speed followed by the fan speed knob becoming melted into a fixed position. The first occurrence was in February 2021 and the damaged control module (part number 72311FJ500) and the pigtail connector were replaced by a trained auto body tech. The second occurrence was in August 2021 and I took the vehicle to the Subaru dealership given it was a repeat occurrence and because we were concerned it might be a problem that could impact other vehicles. The service department at Subaru kept the vehicle for 2 weeks to diagnose the problem and eventually recommended we replace the vehicle's main wiring harness as well as again replace the damaged heater and air conditioning control module. We authorized the required repairs. The issue has now occurred for a third time and I will be taking the vehicle to Subaru again. I will be asking the service department to contact the manufacturer about this safety issue. I believe the primary risk to safety the potential of a fire in the vehicle in the right circumstances due to excessive current at the connector of the module. There is a secondary but less acute risk that the heater becomes inoperable during the winter and puts occupants at risk which is the situation we are facing as we travel frequently in rural areas.

I had to have it be jump-started first on 7/20/21 and again on 7/23/21, the battery had been replaced with a new manufacturer's battery in Feb. of 2020. When the battery didn't start on 7/23 there were several warning lights concerning all the electrical safety systems. AAA came again this time jumped it and it started and I had it towed to the dealership. Since it was towed to the dealership I have learned that this is a documented problem with this car and that there was even a service bulletin put out by Subaru about how to deal with the problem, their fix is to replace the battery but that is fixing the symptom but not a cure. I was told that I should report this to your agency.

2016 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0 LTD (CVT) When placing vehicle in park, occasionally, will not allow me to remove ignition key when transmission is placed in park position. Safety issue is that I am not able to exit vehicle because if they remains in the car, it will be an easy vehicle to steal. Especially an issue if I am in a parking lot at night or during severe weather conditions. The car dealer and Subaru of America feel that it is my financial responsibility even though there are numerous other Subaru Crosstrek owners that have voiced the same complaint. Subaru has issued several service bulletins acknowledging that there is a defect and that the shifter was redesigned for model year 2019. Subaru Service Bulletin 16-112-18R states "The cause is contamination if the Park-Range switch internal components.

HAD BEEN DRIVING FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES, MAJORITY OF IT HAD BEEN ON THE HIGHWAY, AND I EXITED OFF THE HIGHWAY. I WAITED AT A STOP LIGHT AND THEN TURNED ONTO A SECONDARY ROAD. THE CAR ALL OF A SUDDEN GAVE ALL WARNING LIGHTS WITH THE HYBRID SYSTEM AND I LOST ACCELERATION IN THE VEHICLE. IT MADE IT VERY HARD TO STEER, AND WHEN STEPPING ON THE GAS IT BARELY HAD ANY POWER TO ACCELERATE THE VEHICLE. FELT LIKE I LOST THE MAIN POWER A D WAS USING ONLY THE HYBRID BATTERY TO POWER THE VEHICLE. I PULLED OFF ON A SIDE STREET PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF. I WAITED A FEW MINUTES AND THEN TURNED THE CAR BACK ON AND EVERYTHING WAS FINE. THIS OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING AND IF IT HAD HAPPENED TWO MINUTES EARLIER I WOULD'VE BEEN ON THE HIGHWAY AND IN REAL TROUBLE.

KEY IS UNABLE TO BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION AFTER SHIFTING TO PARK. SOMETIMES REQUIRES YOU TO SHIFT IN AND OUT OF PARK SEVERAL TIMES TO GET THE KEY TO RELEASE. SEEMS TO BE A COMMON COMPLAINT AND A DEFECTIVE PARK POSITION SENSOR.

KEY IS UNABLE TO BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION AFTER SHIFTING TO PARK. SOMETIMES REQUIRES YOU TO SHIFT IN AND OUT OF PARK SEVERAL TIMES TO GET THE KEY TO RELEASE. SEEMS TO BE A COMMON COMPLAINT AND A DEFECTIVE PARK POSITION SENSOR.

WHEN PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK I AM UNABLE TO GET THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. AFTER 2-6X OF PUTTING IT IN AND OUT OF PARK THE KEY WILL RELEASE.

MY IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK SOMETIMES. I BELIEVE IT IS THIS ISSUE: HTTPS://STATIC.NHTSA.GOV/ODI/TSBS/2018/MC-10153178-9999.PDF

WHEN THE CAR IS PUT IN PARK THE KEYS AUTOMATICALLY LOCK IN THE IGNITION AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. WHEN SEARCHING THE INTERNET FOR THIS ISSUE IT CAME UP NUMEROUS AMOUNTS OF TIMES. SOMEONE FOUND OUT THE ISSUE THAT SUBARU INSTALLED FAULTY CONNECTORS NEAR THE SHIFTER. THAT IS SUPPOSED TO SEND A SIGNAL TO THE STEERING WHEEL IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE KEYS FROM THE IGNITION. HOWEVER THAT SIGNAL IS NOT ALWAYS SENT BECAUSE THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS DO NOT CONNECT WHEN IT IS PUT INTO PARK. DRIVER'S ONLY HAVE A TEMPORARY SOLUTION OF SHIFTING IT INTO DRIVE THEN BACK INTO PARK MULTIPLE TIMES WHILE TRYING TO PULL THE KEYS OUT. MY CAR IS CURRENTLY OUT OF WARRANTY DUE TO MILEAGE HOWEVER IT IS ONLY 4 YEARS OLD AND SHOULD BE REPLACED BY A RECALL, SINCE THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AS KEYS MAY BE LOCKED IN THE VEHICLE IN ORDER FOR THE AUTOMOBILE TO BE STOLEN.

MY BATTERY KEEP DRAINING ALL THE TIME SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR I HAVE CHANGED 3 OF THEM. TWO OF THE BATTERY WERE STILL OKAY BUT I STILL CHANGED THEM. ALSO, ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS ON THE DASHBOARD KEEP ON AND OFF WITHOUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. I BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE DEALER AND THEY FIXED THE BRAKE SWITCH RECALL AND I ALSO MENTION THE PROBLEM TO THEM BUT THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. FEW DAYS LATER, I BROUGHT THE CAR BACK TO THE DEALER BECAUSE THE WARNING LIGHTS WERE ON AND OFF ON THE DASHBOARD. THEY DIAGNOSED THE CAR AND SAID THE CAR NEED TO REPLACE THE VALVE BODY TRANSMISSION WHICH I DOUBT THAT MY CAR HAS PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSMISSION. I ALSO HAVE DONE SOME RESEARCH AND A LOT OF PEOPLE WHO OWN THE SUBARU HAVE THAT SAME ISSUE. I PERSONALLY USED TO OWN THE SUBARU BRZ AND THAT CAR ALSO HAS THE PROBLEM WITH THE BATTERY AND THE DEALER JUST REPLACED IT FOR ME.

WHILE PUTTING MY VEHICLE IN PARK THE KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION. IT TAKES MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS OF GOING BACK AND FORTH TO GET THE KEY TO RELEASE FROM THE IGNITION. TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND IT WAS DIAGNOSED WITH "FAILURE TO PARK POSITION, AND NEEDED TO REPLACE THE MICRO SWITCH PLATE" WITH A COST OF APPROXIMATELY $800.00 DOLLARS. *TR

THE KET GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PUT IN PARK. THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY.

MY CAR JUST HAS HAD BACKUP CAMERA ISSUE SINCE A MONTH AGO. I CALLED THE LOCAL SUBARU SERVICE BUT THEY WOULD CHARGE ME FOR A DIAGNOSIS WHICH I DON'T LIKE THE IDEA TO PAY IT. I LEARNED THAT SUBARU RECALLS OTHER SUBARU MODELS (NON CROSSTREK) FOR ITS BACKUP CAMERA ISSUE. I WOULD LIKE TO SEE MY BACKUP CAMERA TO BE FIXED WHICH THAT IS A SAFETY CONCERN.*DT VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN REPAIRED. CONSUMER STATED CROSSTREK WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL.*JB

THE VEHICLE WAS LOSING POWER AND GETTING CLOSE TO THE POINT OF STALLING BUT NEVER STALLED. IT WOULD PERIODICALLY NOT SWITCH GEARS AS WELL. SEEMS LIKE IT COULD HAVE BEEN A FAULTY BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. APPARENTLY I WAS TOLD THAT MY VEHICLE WAS NOT COVERED UNDER THE RECALL PUT OUT EARLIER FOR THIS ISSUE. SO I HAD TO PAY OUT OF POCKET.

THE KEY MECHANISM FAILS TO LET YOU REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE SWITCH. IT FAILS TO RETURN TO THE FULL OFF POSITION TO ALLOW THE KEY REMOVAL. I HAVE TO TURN KEY OFF & ON ANYWHERE FROM TWICE TO 20 TIMES TO GET THE KEY TO RETURN ALL THE WAY TO THE OFF POSITION TO ALLOW THE KEY REMOVAL. SOMETIMES, I START AND STOP TO ASSIST THE OPERATION BUT STILL CAN TAKE UP TO 10 TIMES FOR THE KEY POSITION TO FULLY RETURN TO THE OFF POSITION TO ALLOW FOR THE KEY REMOVAL

MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION ON THE ACC POSITION, SO I CAN NOT LEAVE MY CAR WITH THE KEY IN IT BECAUSE THE BATTERY IS STILL ON. THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AND IN PARK. I TURN THE KEY COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND REMOVE THE KEY, THE KEY WILL NOT GO FURTHER THAN THE ACC POSITION, AND NO, IT IS NOT THAT I'M NOT PUSHING IT IN ENOUGH OR THE STEERING WHEEL LOCK. I AM ESSENTIALLY STUCK IN MY CAR OR AT RISK OF IT BEING STOLEN. IT HAPPENS FREQUENTLY (AT LEAST ONCE A DAY) BUT NOT EVERY SINGLE TIME I DRIVE THE CAR. IT HAS MADE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO DRIVE, AND FOR FEAR OF DAMAGING THE TRANSMISSION OR ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS FURTHER I TRY NOT TO DRIVE IT. SUBARU IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE ACROSS FIVE OTHER SUBARU MODELS OVER FIVE YEARS (2013-2018; LEGACY, OUTBACK, IMPREZA, CROSSTREK, FORESTER, WRX - UNTIL RECENTLY THEIR ENTIRE LINEUP!) AND ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN LAST YEAR (ATTACHED). IT IS AFFECTING SO MANY OTHER CUSTOMERS, YET THEY WILL NOT FIX IT. THE SERVICE BULLETIN ANNOUNCED A DESIGN CHANGE TO THE CVT SELECT LEVER DUE TO PARK-RANGE SWITCH INTERNAL COMPONENTS. THEY CLAIM IT IS "ISOLATED" BUT A QUICK SEARCH ON THE INTERNET PROVES THIS IS NOT THE CASE.

TRANSMISSION IN PARK. KEY IS IN IGNITION AND TURNED OFF. HOWEVER THE ENGINE CONTINUES TO RUN. REQUIRES SEVERAL ON OFF ATTEMPTS TO SHUT ENGINE OFF.

KEY IS STICKING IN IGNITION. WAS INFORMED THAT THERE IS A KNOWN FIX FOR A KNOWN PROBLEM THAT HAPPENS BUT IT WILL COST OVER $400 TO FIX. THIS IS A KNOWN DESIGN FLAW WITH A KNOWN SERVICE BULLETIN THAT MAKES A CHANGE TO A PIECE OF PLASTIC IN THE SHIFTER.

2016 SUBARU CROSSTREK, 27,500 MILES. UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK. WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE ONLY WAY TO REMOVE KEY IS TO PUT THE CAR IN AND OUT OF GEAR AND THEN BACK TO PARK. HAS OCCURRED 1/2 DOZEN TIMES, MOST RECENTLY TODAY 11/13/2018. I AM CONCERNED THAT I MAY NOT BE ABLE TO GET THE KEY OUT AT SOME POINT IN THE FUTURE. OBVIOUSLY, I CANNOT LEAVE THE CAR UNLOCKED WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION! SWITCHING GEARS IS NOT ALWAYS AN INSTANT FIX AND CAN TAKE AWHILE GOING BETWEEN DRIVE/REVERSE/NEUTRAL BEFORE RETURNING TO PARK AND THE KEY RELEASES FROM THE IGNITION. HAVE A CALL INTO THE DEALER REGARDING THIS ISSUE AND SERVICE BULLETIN TSB-16-112-18R

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. INTERMITTENTLY, THE KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY TO THE OFF POSITION TO ALLOW REMOVAL. TURNING THE KEY TO THE "ON" POSITION THEN SHIFTING INTO GEAR AND BACK INTO PARK SOMETIMES ALLOWS THE KEY TO THEN TURN OFF AND BE REMOVED. THE CAR IS STATIONARY AND IN PARK. THE CAR DOESN'T SEEM TO RECOGNIZE THAT IT IS IN PARK.

HAVE HAD SEVERAL INSTANCES OF NOT BEING ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN PARK. RECENTLY WENT TO DEALER FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TOLD THEM OF PROBLEM BUT THEY WERE UNAWARE OF ANY COMPLAINTS. NOW I SEE THERE IS A MANUFACTURER COMMUNICATION NUMBER 16-112-18R. SO APPARENTLY THIS INFORMATION ISN'T BEING EMPHASIZED TO THE DEALERS. THIS PROBLEM IS INTERMITTENT AND TO DATE I'VE BEEN ABLE TO MOVE SHIFTER LEVER SEVERAL TIMES AND GET KEY RELEASED BUT I'M SURE SOMEDAY I WON'T BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY AT ALL. THIS STARTED HAPPENING SEVERAL MONTHS AGO AND CONTINUES. IF I RETURN LATE IN THE EVENING AND CAN'T SHUT OFF MY CAR WHAT WILL I DO?

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU CROSSTREK. WHILE MAKING A RIGHT TURN, THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILED AND CAUSED THE CONTACT TO REAR END ANOTHER VEHICLE. A POLICE REPORT WAS NOT FILED AND THERE WERE NO INJURIES. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED BEFORE OR AFTER THE FAILURE. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT NOTIFIED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 24,000.

TWICE NOW AFTER LETTING MY CAR SIT PARKED IN MY DRIVEWAY FOR 3 TO 5 DAYS MY BATTERY HAS DRAINED TO THE POINT THAT MY CAR WILL NOT START AND I WOULD NEED TO JUMP START MY CAR EACH TIME. BOTH TIMES I JUMP STARTED MY CAR I WOULD VERIFY THAT I DIDN'T MAKE AN HONEST MISTAKE OF LEAVING ANYTHING ON LIKE A DOME LIGHT ETC. AND I HAVE NOT LEFT ANYTHING ON. IT IS WORTH NOTING THAT I HAVE THE LIMITED VERSION WITH KEYLESS ENTRY/START THE WHOLE EYESIGHT SYSTEM WITH AN ADDED OEM REMOTE START SYSTEM INSTALLED WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR FROM THE DEALER.