2010 Hyundai Elantra Suspension Problems

While driving on the highway, your rear lower control arm suddenly detached from the subframe, causing you to lose control of the vehicle. The subframe had corroded due to road salt exposure, which weakened the connection point where the control arm attaches. This happened without any warning lights, and the component is available for inspection. The repair will likely require replacement of the corroded subframe and lower control arm.

Turning onto my street and continued two hundred feet to my driveway I had to turn the steering wheel one quarter to the left to keep the car straight on the road. On inspection of the vehicle I noticed the left rear wheel was at an angle. Further inspection showed the suspension had departed.

Traveling 25-30 MPH on a gravel road, car shuddered and seemed to tilt sightly to the left. At the same time a loud grinding noise was heard and steering felt funny. On stopping and exiting the car, I saw the left rear wheel was toed to the left, and leaning so that the top of the tire was extended beyond the fender arch. Looking beneath the car, I could see the left rear control arm had torn loose from it's pivot point near the center of the uni-body, due to corrosion. The wheel hub was attached to the car solely by the torsion bar, brake line, and strut. The car had passed a state safety inspection exactly one year previous, and has approximately 115K miles, primarily in Maine. There was NO warning before the failure, such as sloppy steering or unstable handling. The gravel road where the failure occurred leads to my vacation cabin. To get there and return home I must cross a mountain pass which is steep and winding both ways, with a speed limit of 50MPH. One side has sheer drop offs, and the other has solid rock ledge. If the failure had happened in this 10 mile stretch, the results could very well have been deadly. Someone may have offered to repair the corrosion damage to the uni-body, but I could never feel comfortable driving the car again. There was no damage to anything but the vehicle itself, so no police report was made. The extremely rural area where the failure occurred made it impractical to get the car to a Hyundai dealer. I junked the car with Dubois Towing and Salvage, 438 River Rd, Mexico, Maine, 04257 (207-364-7273).

ALL OF A SUDDEN ALL 4 SWAY BARS NEED BE REPLACED

I WAS DRIVING TOWARD THE BON TON , SHOPPING CENTER IN CARLISLE, PA. IT WAS PULLING LEFT AND RIGHT, IT APPEARED TO BE FIGHTING ME IN STEERING.

FAILED 2 INSPECTIONS, STILL UNDER LEMON LAW RIGHTS, GIVEN FALSE VIN # AT 1ST, CAR DIED ON ME 9/18, GOT JUMPED BY TOW CO, CRACK IN WINDSHIELD (PRESTIGE AUTO TOLD ME TO GET IT FIXED MYSELF)- CAR HESITATES WHILE DRIVING- GIVEN TWO DIFF DATES OF SALE (TWO DIFF SLIPS - CAR PURCHASED 9/24 - SERVICE TOLD ME 9/15- I PUT DOWNPAYMENT $200 ON9/15 ONLY-PD IN FULL & TOOK CAR 9/14 - SIGNED FOR CAR 9/24/16 DROVE OFF LOT. I WANT MY ALL OF MY MONEY BACK - I DO NOT WANT THIS VEHICLE - I DO NOT TRUST THAT IT WILL WORK EVEN 2 WKS FROM NOW- I NEED RELIABLE VEHICLE! I PAID $8092.69 ALL OF $$ THAT I HAD LEFT FROM MY DECEASED FATHER. I AM SUPPOSED TO BEGIN TRAINING ON NEW JOB TOMORROW- DON'T EVEN KNOW IF I WILL MAKE IT. PLEASE HELP. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

2010 HYUNDAI ELANTRA TOURING. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO LOUD CLUNKING SOUND COMING FROM THE REAR AREA OF THE VEHICLE. *SMD THE DEALER STATED, DESPITE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO EXAMINE THE VEHICLE ON THE LIFT AND SEVERAL TEST DRIVES, THE MECHANICS WERE UNABLE TO PINPOINT OR CORRECT THE PROBLEM.

TRUNK LID OPENS BY ITSELF EITHER WHEN DRIVING OR WHILE PARKED. HAD MY 2010 ELANTRA TOWED TO DEALER SATURDAY 03/05/11 AFTER HEARING A LOUD SOUND UNDER REAR OF CAR AS IF SOMETHING METAL HAD BROKEN, THEN IT SOUNDED LIKE SOMETHING UNDER THE REAR OF THE CAR HAD DROPPED, THEN A LOUD SCRAPING NOISE OCCURRED, THIS HAPPENED WHILE TURNING RIGHT INTO MY PAVED DRIVEWAY. I STOPPED IMMEDIATELY AND LOOKED UNDER THE CAR, THERE WAS NOTHING IN THE ROAD OR MY DRIVEWAY. AS I PULLED THE CAR IN THE DRIVEWAY LOUD RATTLING AND SCRAPING SOUNDS AND SOUNDS OF SPRINGS STRETCHING AND BREAKING WERE COMING FROM THE LEFT REAR WHEEL, I LOOKED FOR ANYTHING FOREIGN STUCK IN THE WHEELS AND SAW NOTHING. THE DEALER SAID ALL THEY FOUND WAS RUST ON THE ROTOR. GIVE ME A BREAK, ALL ROTORS RUST AND IT RAINED ALL DAY SUNDAY BEFORE THEY LOOKED AT THE CAR. I HAD DRIVEN THE CAR AT LEAST 45 MILES THAT SATURDAY BEFORE THIS ALL OCCURRED, THERE WOULD HAVE BEEN NO RUST LEFT ON THE BRAKING SURFACE OF THE ROTORS BY THEN. BESIDES RUST DOES NOT CAUSE THE SOUNDS THAT I HEARD. ALSO WHEN THE CAR WAS UP ON THE FLAT-BED I NOTICED THE LEFT REAR WHEEL WAS ON A SLANT. I WILL ASK THE DEALER TO FULLY INSPECT THE SUSPENSION AND IF THEY CAN PULL THE REAR ROTORS OFF TO INSPECT THE EMERGENCY BRAKES AND TO CHECK OUT WHY THE TRUNK LID OPENS BY ITSELF ON TUESDAY 03/08/11, AND I WILL LET THE NHTSA KNOW THE RESULTS. UPDATED IVOQ 03/11/11 *TR

I TOOK DELIVERY OF THE BRAND NEW CAR & ABOUT A MILE DOWN THE ROAD I NOTICED PROMINENT BOUNCES AFTER THE CAR WOULD GO OVER BUMP IN THE ROAD WHEN THE CAR WAS DECELERATING TO A TRAFFIC LIGHT. I FELT A TOTAL OF THREE BOUNCES WITH THE FIRST BEING THE LARGEST, SECOND HALF OF FIRST, THIRD HALF OF SECOND, & FOURTH COULDN'T BE FELT. IT WAS BUMPER TO BUMPER TRAFFIC & GOING LIGHT TO LIGHT. THE BUMPS WERE RAISE SECTIONS OF THE ROAD AFFECTING ALL FOUR TIRES. THE BUMPS WERE NOT POTHOLES. I EMAILED MY SALESPERSON THE NEXT BUSINESS DAY OF THE PROBLEM WITH NO RESPONSE. MY MAIN CONCERN IS HIGHWAY DRIVING. ONE STRETCH OF HIGHWAY HAS CEMENT SLABS IN AN UNDULATING PATTERN THAT I HAVE DRIVEN OVER DAILY FOR A VERY LONG TIME AT MANY DIFFERENT SPEEDS & IN MANY DIFFERENT DRIVING CONDITIONS. MY PREVIOUS CAR WOULD REACT BY RUMBLING UP & DOWN. THAT SENSATION WAS CONSTANT OVER THE YEARS AT ANY SPEED & DRIVING CONDITION. ONCE I CLEARED THAT SECTION OF THE BAD HIGHWAY, MY CAR WOULD IMMEDIATELY STOP. THE FIRST TIME I WENT OVER THAT SAME STRETCH OF HIGHWAY IN MY NEW CAR AT AN EST. 60-65 MPH, THE CAR BEGIN TO OSCILLATE HARMONICALLY (BOUNCE RHYTHMICALLY) & CONTINUED TO HARMONICALLY OSCILLATE (BOUNCE) ONCE I CLEARED THAT BAD SECTION OF THE HIGHWAY FOR AN ADDITIONAL MINUTE. I ESTIMATED THE TOTAL TIME AT TWO MINUTES. THE HARMONIC OSCILLATION FELT VERY CONSISTENT OVER THAT TWO MINUTE STRETCH. ONCE I WENT OVER ANOTHER BUMP THE OSCILLATION WENT STOPPED. THE STRUTS ARE SUPPOSED TO DAMPEN THE OSCILLATIONS. I BROUGHT IT INTO THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT. THE MECHANIC TEST DROVE IT & SAID THE SUSPENSION FELT FIRM. THE SUSPENSION CHECKED OUT OK (NO NUMBERS GIVEN). IT HAS A SPORT TUNED SUSPENSION & WAS SUPPOSE TO DO THIS. THE MECHANIC DIDN'T DRIVE THE BAD SECTION OF THE HIGHWAY BECAUSE IT WAS TOO FAR AWAY. I WILL TRY TO RESOLVE THIS MATTER WITH THE HYUNDAI'S FIELD SERVICE ENGINEER.

2010 HYUNDAI ELANTRA GLS. CONSUMER STATES PROBLEM WITH VEHICLE TIRES. CONSUMER STATES DURING SNOW SEASON, NUMEROUS TIMES THE FRONT TIRES SWAYED TO THE LEFT AND THEN RIGHT *TGW THE CONSUMER STATED SHE DID NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN IT HAPPENED AND SHE WAS GOING 10-15 MPH. THE CONSUMER STATED AN ALIGNMENT WAS PERFORMED ON THE VEHICLE AND THE INSPECTION REVEALED THE FRONT AND REAR TOE WAS OUT OF SPECIFICATIONS. *JB

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE VEHICLE WOULD BOUNCE INTERMITTENTLY WHILE DRIVING AT ANY SPEED OVER 50 MPH. THE VEHICLE ALSO FISH TAILS OCCASIONALLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THEY LOWERED THE TIRE PRESSURE; HOWEVER; AFTER 1500 MILES THE PROBLEMS WERE STILL OCCURRING CONSISTENTLY. THE CONTACT DID NOT INFORM THE MANUFACTURER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 1500. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 15. UPDATED 02/10/11 *BF UPDATED 02/22/11

WATER LEAKS FROM WINDSHIELD AREA INTO BEHIND DASHBOARD AND ACCUMULATES ON FLOOR MATS(FRONT AREA). FRONT RIGHT WHEEL SCRAPING NOISE. ALREADY REPLACED TIRE, PREMATURE TIRE FAILURE. HEATER CONTROL LIGHTS TURNS OFF. *TR