2016 Chevrolet Tahoe Engine Problems

Your 2016 Tahoe stalled while driving uphill and rolled backward, requiring multiple restart attempts. Later, the vehicle jerked at highway speed with instrument gauges flickering and the check engine light came on. The dealer found failures in the oil pump, fuel injectors, spark plugs, camshaft, and engine lifters, and ultimately determined the entire engine needs replacement at 85,000 miles. This will likely require a complete engine replacement or rebuild.

Your engine failed suddenly at 80,000 miles while driving on the freeway with no warning signs — the engine lost power and produced black smoke. The dealer identified a faulty valve lifter as the cause. Repairing the engine will cost approximately $16,000. The repair will likely involve removing and rebuilding or replacing the engine block and internal components.

While driving on the freeway, your engine lost power and began vibrating severely, requiring a tow to the dealer. The dealer diagnosed a faulty lifter in cylinder six, which requires an $8,000+ repair despite your vehicle having less than 90,000 miles and being owned for less than a year. Fixing this will likely involve removing the engine's valve cover and replacing the defective lifter component.

Lifters were stuck and ruined the cam shaft. All lifters and cam shaft replaced

After lifters on engine failed on original engine at approximately 47K miles, engine was rebuilt. Received Tahoe back with 47,791 miles on odometer. Brand new Chevrolet lifters failed prior to odometer reaching 48,903, bending rods and requiring that the engine that was just rebuilt to be replaced or rebuilt again. While driving engine loss oil pressure with red light warning coming on telling to immediately turn off engine. Engine may have ceased while car was in motion, putting driver and passenger(s), if any, in immediate and imminent danger. it was almost 7 months to rebuild engine last time due to GMAC parts being unavailable. Brand new parts failed at roughly 1K miles, there may be a quality control and/or design issue with lifters.

My 6 yr old chevy Tahoe felt like it was hesitating when driving. I called my local garage and dropped it off. They informed me after inspection that the lifters have failed and now cylinders are in deactivation made. The fix is a new Engine. 10-14k dollars. They informed me this is a known issue in this model. I called chevy customer service. I Took Tahoe to a chevy dealer. They confirmed the diagnosis. I have no recall, no engine light on and am told driving it will cause more serious damage and eventually will not run. Chevy is unresponsive to my pleas for financial assistance and I am left without a driveable car.

I WAS DRIVING MY 2016 TAHOE WHEN IT BEGAN TO SHAKE VIOLENTLY, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND THE TRACTION LIGHT CAME ON THEN THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO LOOSE POWER. I PULLED OVER AND PARKED THE VEHICLE AND IT SHUT OFF. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO CRANK THE VEHICLE UP AGAIN IT MADE A VERY LOUD SOUND AND DIED. AFTER HAVING IT TOWED TO A LOCAL SHOP IT WAS FOUND THAT THE VALUE SPRING IN THE #2 CYLINDER WAS BROKEN AND THE PUSH ROD WAS BENT. AT THE TIME THE VEHICLE HAD 75,200 MILES ON IT. NOW, I AM EXPERIENCING A CHUGGING FEELING WHEN I STOP THE VEHICLE. PRETTY SURE I HAVE ANOTHER SPRING THAT'S ABOUT TO BREAK. *TR

INTERMITTEN OCCURANCE DURING ACCELERATION, BETWEEN 1ST AND 2ND GEAR A "LAG" "LOW POWER" OCCURS CAUSING A LUNGE. 27,000 MILES

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 CHEVROLET TAHOE. WHILE DRIVING 20 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE PREVIOUSLY OCCURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO COURTESY CHEVROLET (1233 E CAMELBACK RD, PHOENIX, AZ 85014, (602) 457-3232) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT HIGH TEMPERATURE WEATHER CAUSED THE ENGINE TO STALL. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 21,000.

WHILE DRIVING IN THE SUMMER, MY WIFE INFORMED ME THAT THE VEHICLE HAD STALLED AND ALMOST DIED--SHORTLY AFTER, THE AC WAS NOT WORKING. I LEFT WORK AND CAME TO HER--FOUND THAT THE COMPRESSOR BELT HAD SHREDDED OFF. TOOK THE VEHICLE TO DEALER AND THEY REPLACED COMPRESSOR. A MONTH LATER, MY WIFE WAS DRIVING HOME ON THE INTERSTATE AND THE VEHICLE STARTED STALLING AND JERKING. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STARTED BLINKING AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT ALSO ILLUMINATED. I TRAILERED THE VEHICLE TO OUR HOME A FEW MILES AWAY. I DID NOTICE THE LONG BOLT HOLDING THE NEW COMPRESSOR WAS LOOSE (1/4" SPACE BETWEEN BOLT HEAD AND WASHER). THE BOLT WAS TIGHTENED, BUT DID NOT APPEAR TO BE A CONTRIBUTING FACTOR. WHEN IDLING, THE ENGINE JERKS SO HARD THAT THE ENTIRE CAR SHAKES-THE ENGINE NEARLY DIES.. FOR SOME TIME, THE VEHICLE HAS PRODUCED AN UNUSUAL PURRING/CLICKING NOISE WHILE NAVIGATING THRU A PARKING LOT OR SOMETHING AT SLOW SPEEDS--SOUNDS LIKE IN THE TRANSMISSION OR TORQUE CONVERTER? THE VEHICLE IS BEING TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP NOW FOR THEIR DIAGNOSIS.

THE VEHICLE HAS ROUGH IDLE OR SHAKE WHEN STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN OR RED LIGHT IN DRIVE. HOWEVER SOMETIMES YOU CAN FEEL IT WHEN PARKED.

MY 2016 TAHOE LTZ HAS A ROUGH, SHAKY IDLE WHILE IN PARK. THE PIP5211E WAS PERFORMED AT DEALER ABOUT ONE MONTH AGO AND CONDITION PERSISTS. IT IS ABSOLUTELY NOTICEABLE TO ALL MY PASSENGERS WHO SIT IN THE VEHICLE WHILE ITS IDLING IN PARK! PLEASE HELP OR ADVISE ON HOW TO CORRECT THIS PROBLEM. THIS IS NOT THE WAY A BRAND NEW $74K VEHICLE SHOULD RUN. IT FEELS LIKE THE VEHICLE IS GOING TO STALL AT TIMES. DEALER SERVICE DEPARTMENT IS NO HELP AT FIXING OR ADDRESSING THE PROBLEM. THE CONDITION IS CONSTANT WHILE IN PARK IDLING AND SLLIGHY PRESENT WHEN IN DRIVE WITH BRAKE APPLIED.